Favorite Anchorages: Jedediah Island Area

In previous posts, I have provided information on crossing Georgia Strait.  In this post I'm going to describe a few anchorages that I have come to depend on when we cruise up or down Georgia Strait.  If the weather permits we try to break up the long "slog" of crossing Georgia Strait into two days, otherwise it makes for a very long day.  One of our favorite stops is the "Bull Passage" area.  Bull Passage is formed by Lasqueti (pronounced "Laz-kee-tee") Island to the west, and Bull and Jedediah Islands to the east.  This little archipelago is not only a convenient stop-over but beautiful and unique too.

Click on image to enlarge

Lasqueti Island has quite a few homes on it - some vacation homes, some permanent residents.  Jedediah and Bull Islands are a BC Provincial Marine Park.  These islands are great for gunkholing about in a dinghy or runabout.  If you are a photographer or artist you will have hours and hours of items to photograph, sketch, or paint.   The rock walls combined with the reddish arbutus trees and lighting are so beautiful.  On Jedediah Island you can even find small cactus growing in small nooks and cracks within the rocks.  I found these cacti by painful accident while sitting one day.  You can even find some hiking trails about.  There's plenty of wildlife too.  There are feral sheep on Jedediah Island left over from long ago homesteaders.  We have seen otters, seals, and whales in the area.  Sheer and Rabbit Islands have nesting colonies of sea birds.  There's good salmon fishing nearby too.  Oh, one downside about this archipelago - it's mosquito heaven.  On all the anchorages we have been bothered by these little voracious biting beasts.

There are several anchorages in this archipelago each one with it's own advantages and disadvantages and qualities.  On the chart you will see Long Harbour but I avoid it because it is shoal.  Occasionally on some neap tides I have seen boats anchored in Long Hbr, but I never have.  Many of the small bays and nooks in the area are too deep, shoal too quickly by shore, or are too shallow.  As a result, I have experience with six (6) different anchorages in the Bull Passage/Jedediah Island area.  They are in order of my preference when anchoring in this area.

MV Independence at anchor in Boho Bay.

1. Boho Bay.  This is a scenic and popular anchorage.  Anchoring depths vary from 40' to 60' feet on a hard mud bottom.  Holding is good.  I've seen as many as 6-8 boats anchored here.  There are some stern tie rings on the Lasqueti Island side.  Many boats anchor near Boho Island.  I use this anchorage in any kind of weather - NW or SE winds on the Strait.  The downside to this anchorage is that it can be popular and there is a research facility at the head of Boho Bay that has pump noises, lights, and small boat traffic.
2. "Sheep Anchorage."  This anchorage has the name "sheep anchorage" because late in the evening the feral sheep on Jedediah Island will come down to the shore to graze.  It's interesting to be in your boat and hear the bleating of sheep nearby.  Commonly we have enjoyed incredibly beautiful sunsets from this anchorage.  Anchorage depths vary from 20' to 40' over a mud and gravel bottom.  Holding is good.  Few boats use this anchorage.  Once we had two other boats with us anchored here.  I only use this anchorage in calm weather or if a SE wind is blowing.  NW winds will make this anchorage a bumpy one.  Remember the winds in Georgia Strait often start to blow after midnight.  So in the evening you settle down to a calm anchorage only to wake a few hours later thinking you are in a washing machine.  Another downside to this anchorage are wakes from passing boats as they cruise Bull Passage.
3. "Paul Island Cut."  This is a small and often crowded anchorage.  A stern tie to shore is required.  There are stern tie rings available.  Depths are 20' - 40' feet.  Holding good to fair.  This anchorage can get crowded and I generally avoid it.  I compare it to staying in a "trailer park."  It is scenic though.  Good protection in any kind of weather, though I get nervous in winds because of the closeness of neighboring boats even when stern tied.
4. "Little Boho Bay."  This anchorage is seldom used and I only use it if the other anchorages are full.  Anchoring depths are around 40' on a gravel and rock bottom.  Holding is fair.  I only use this anchorage in calm weather.  The downside is the holding and the small research facility nearby.  A salt water pump to feed the fish tanks is located here and you will hear its motor running for most of the time - although it does shut down late at night.
5. "Rabbit Island."  This anchorage located at the eastern end of the channel between Bull and Jedediah Islands and west of "Rabbit Island" is rarely used because of where it is located.  You have to be careful navigating the channel between Bull and Jedediah Island or coming from the Strait.  So, chances are you may be the only boat anchored here.  It is very beautiful with the steep rock walls and arbutus trees surrounding you on two sides.  Anchoring depths are around 20-30' over a mud and gravel bottom.  Holding is good to fair.  I only use this anchorage if a NW wind is blowing or in calm weather.
6. "Always Taken Anchorage."  This anchorage is a one-boat anchorage in a small nook just off of Lasqueti Island.  It is quite protected in any kind of weather.  Good holding on a hard mud bottom in depths 20-30'.  The downside to this anchorage is that it seems to be always taken with another boat, hence the name.  Caution needs to be taken because there is a rock right in the middle of the anchorage entrance.  Once, another boater had to anchor here too giving me a restless night of "are we going to bump."  As a result I rarely use this anchorage.

Bull Passage is about 20 nautical miles from Departure Bay, Nanaimo and about 45 nautical miles to Lund via Malaspina Strait.  Or, about 34 nm via Sabine Channel (west side of Texada Island) to Lund.  It's about 55 nautical miles to Campbell River.  Commonly when cruising down Georgia Strait we will leave our anchorage in this area to get to Nanaimo before Area WG (Whiskey Golf) becomes active (listen to VHF Weather Radio 3).  Or, many times you will notice that Georgia Strait winds die down in the late afternoon and evening, so you can do the short cruise from Nanaimo to these anchorages and then get a good start towards Desolation Sound the next day.  Whichever way you go, I hope you try this great area out.

Sunset from "Sheep Anchorage"

To read previous posts about Georgia Strait and this area see:

•  MV Independence: Which Route Crossing Georgia Strait Is Best For ...
•  MV Independence: Summer Trip Planning - Crossing the Monster
•  MV Independence: The Long Slog Down the Strait
•  MV Independence: Day 17 - Going South

Which Route Crossing Georgia Strait Is Best For You?

Last summer we took advantage of some very calm weather ahead of predicted stormy weather to come down Georgia Strait. Fuel cost, time, weather, scenery, and available anchorages all weighed in my decision on which "route" to travel down the Strait to Nanaimo. In the 21+ years I've been crossing Georgia Strait I've come to define three major routes that not only I but other boaters use. These are, west side, west Texada, and Malaspina. Each route has its benefits and its demerits. And along with each route there are some minor route changes that you can do. However, which main Georgia Strait route to use depends on where you are going, how much time you have, and the weather.

In my discussion on each cruising route, I will review each route based on the below criteria. Please note that the criteria below are based on my experiences and knowledge and may differ from others with similar knowledge and experience. Remember, you're the captain of your vessel and the below is only offered as advice that you may choose to use or not.

• Distance from Nanaimo (Departure Bay) to a point where you technically out of any weather seas, e.g., Campbell River, or the southern end of Desolation Sound.  Although your numbers of nautical miles may vary, I will report the number of nautical miles from my log book from past trips. 
• Weather seas. The potential for rough seas either northwest or southeast winds where you would experience "moderate" seas of 3'-4' or more. I will rate this from a "1" low risk to "5" high risk. I will further break it down into two sub-areas - Nanaimo to approximately Comox and that latitude across, and from Comox north.
• Anchorages/Moorage. How many safe anchorages or marinas that are along the route and available if you were to experience heavy weather. Safe anchorages for me are where you can reliably be out of the winds and no worry of dragging anchor. I will list the number of anchorages and moorages that I would consider as safe. You may have your own favorite anchorages or marinas.
• Popularity. The number of other boats that travel the same route. This can be both good and bad. I will list this as a "1" low (few boats travel this route) to "5" high (many boaters travel this route).
• Hazards. Shoals, Area WG, ferries, shipping traffic, etc. I will rate this as a "1" low (few hazards) to "5" high (many hazards may be experienced).
• Scenery. Views of shore, mountains, rock formations, and more while traveling. Again a scale will be used from "1" low (no scenic value) to "5" high (lots of scenery). This rating and criteria is pretty subjective and may vary from person to person.
• Amenities. Places where you can stop for repairs or fuel, or provisions. A rating will be used from "1" low (few amenities) to "5" (lots of amenities).

Cruising routes for Georgia Strait. Click on image to enlarge. West Side Georgia Strait Route.
Description:	Follows the eastern shore of Vancouver Island.  Nanaimo to Denman Island (Lambert Channel) to Campbell River (Cape Mudge)
Distance:	73 nm
Weather seas:	southern end: 5  northern end: 5  average: 5
Anchorages:	4 (Schooner Cove, French Creek, Ford Cove, Baynes Sound/Comox)
Popularity:	4
Hazards:	1 (Ferry to Powell River, Shipping Traffic, unless you go into Comox then hazards would be a 4 because of shoals)
Scenery:	1 (May see orca in northern waters)
Amenities:	2 (French Creek, Comox)
Comments:	You’re pretty unprotected on this route and are mercy to the weather seas.  For me, it is a long and boring slog up the island.  However, if Campbell River is your goal then this is the route.  You can skip going up Lambert Channel and save about 5 nm.

West Texada (Sabine Channel) Georgia Strait Route.
Description:	Nanaimo to Bull Passage, then up Sabine Channel along west side of Texada Island and then to Lund
Distance:	57 nm
Weather seas:	southern end: 3  northern end: 4  average: 3.5
Anchorages:	1 (Lasqueti/Jedediah Is.)
Popularity:	1
Hazards:	3 (Area WG, Mystery Reef, Shipping Traffic, Ferry to Powell River)
Scenery:	2 (Jedediah Is.)
Amenities:	1 (Lund)
Comments:	I do travel this route but only in good weather, it saves me a bit of time and we really enjoy Jedediah Marine Park.  Going up the west side of Texada is boring.

Malaspina Strait Georgia Strait Route.
Description:	Nanaimo to Texada, then up Malaspina Strait to Powell River, then to Lund
Distance:	61 nm
Weather seas:	southern end: 3  northern end: 3  average: 3
Anchorages:	5 (Ballet Bay, Blind Bay, Garden Bay, Grief Point, Powell River)
Popularity:	5
Hazards:	3 (Area WG, Boating Traffic, Shipping Traffic, Ferry to Powell River)
Scenery:	3 (Forested shores of Texada, views of mountains)
Amenities:	5 (Garden Bay, Grief Point, Powell River, Lund )
Comments:	We travel this route the most, although I don’t often like the passing wakes from large powerboats.  We have seen bears along the shores of Texada Island.  You don’t feel alone on this route with all the other boats.  And, I’ve ducked into several different spots when I got tired of beating through the waves and swell.

Just SE of Lund

When crossing Georgia Strait I always listen to Comox Coast Guard Radio on WX 3 particularly for the weather “Georgia Strait – North of Nanaimo.”  They will tell me if Area WG (Whiskey Golf) is active and provide weather reports at the below locations to help me choose the best route.  The weather radio forecasts are updated at 4 AM, 10:30 AM, 4 PM, and 9:30 PM.  Automated weather stations are updated each hour.

• Entrance Island – Lighthouse report
•  Merry Island – Lighthouse report
• Chrome Island – Lighthouse report
• Cape Lazo – Lighthouse report
• Cape Mudge – Lighthouse report
• Ballenas Island – Automated report
• Sisters Island – Automated report
• Grief Point – Automated report
• Sentry Shoal – Automated report

So there you have it my analysis of three cruising routes for Georgia Strait.  I hope this information helps you on deciding which route is best for you.  Again, it is based on 21+ years of experience crossing this inland sea which I call the “Monster.”  If you have any comments or suggestions I welcome them.  Happy cruise planning.

Day 15 - Plans Change - Von Donop to Ford Cove

Thursday, July 28, 2011.

Very calm night.  Woke to clouds and cool temperatures.  Our last lazy morning here in Desolation Sound.  We pulled up anchor at 0945 and started the long motor out of Von Donop towards our next intended stop Rebecca Spit.  As we were motoring down Sutil Channel I listed to the VHF weather radio and the forecast for Friday and the northern Strait of Georgia was not too good – NW winds 15-20 knots for Friday and SE winds 15-20 knots for Saturday.  This was a change from what we heard yesterday.  The discussion was now about should we or should we not change our cruising plans.  Currently northern Georgia Strait was like a lake with only light and variable winds - cruising down the Strait would be easy.  However tomorrow we might be in heavy following seas slogging down the Strait.  My concern was that it was a bit late to start such a cruise (1100) and I had lost the best part of the ebb.  For most of today's journey we would be fighting a flood.  However the lure of calm cruising versus slogging was just too great.  It was decided we would take advantage of the calm seas and go down the Strait today.  Just before the Subtle Islands I turned the MV Independence to course 175 degrees and headed down Plunger Passage. So much for Rebecca Spit and another day in paradise. 

 

We motored past Marina Island keeping it port and a good distance from its shallow and rocky shores.  I then set course to pass just west of Mittlenatch Island.  Just past Mittlenach Island we spied a large pod of orca.  They were spy hopping, breaching, flapping their fins and just swimming around.  Was this a good omen on our decision to go down the Strait?  We didn’t change course but watched them as long as we could.  We cruised right by the Sentry Shoal weather buoy on our way down the Strait.  As far as you could see the Strait was calm, this was a good day to tackle "the Monster."

The decision now is where to stay tonight?  The mooring options on this side of the Strait are very limited.  The choices are Ford Cove on Hornby Island, Comox, Tribune Bay, or maybe Deep Bay in Baynes Sound.  All of these possible spots are many hours away and I have no experience with any of them.  I felt bad for the dogs since they hadn’t been to the beach since about 0700. It was going to be a long day for them.  Georgia Strait from Mittlenach Island to Cape Lazo is open and boring, and I don't like it.  I poured over the cruising guides I had, and accessed the Internet about where to stay tonight.  We tried calling Ford Cove via cell phone and VHF all to no avail.  Cruising guides all warn of crossing the Comox bar because of shoal water.  One guide said, "finding the range markers during the day is difficult, but align yourself with Powell River pulp mill and the mountains above Comox and you'll be in the channel."  This didn't sound too reassuring to me.  Also the thought of staying at a marina in a city didn't sound too inviting.  Anchoring in Tribune Bay was an option, but it is completely open to the SE and what if those SE winds came early?  So, we decided on Ford Cove.

As I looked at the chart, another option was anchoring just behind Shingle Spit on Hornby Island.  As we motored by I studied it hard but it didn't look like a lot of shelter.  I also didn't know what kind of bottom it was and would hate to find myself dragging in the middle of the night.  So I nixed that idea. We finally made Ford Cove at 1845 finding an open spot on the outside of the breakwater float.  The little harbor was packed - not only at the docks but even in the limited anchoring area.  We found out later that there was a music festival in town so that’s why the docks were so packed.  I was a bit concerned being on the outside of the breakwater that we would be too rocked by the forthcoming NW winds of 15-20 kts that were supposed to blow around midnight.  So I tied up the boat really well.  The crew took the dogs to the beach while I made a simple supper of grilled Bavarian Smokies and home fried potatoes.  I was very leery of being here – for now its okay, but we’ll see what the winds will bring.  I nervously enjoyed my evening whiskey ration, going through in my mind of different options if it got too rough tonight.

Just before midnight as forecast the NW winds came roaring through at about 15 or so knots.  We were somewhat in the lee of Hornby Island and so the waves were less than a foot, but as they crashed against the hull it sounded to me as if I was inside of a washing machine - "ka ploosh, ka ploosh" went the waves against the hull..  I got up and checked all the lines and moved the Zipper farther aft of the boat as it was rocking pretty good.  This made things quieter.  All the other lines looked good so I returned back to my berth.  As the night wore on the winds abated until around 0500 they were calm.

Stats: Ending engine hours: 6158.0, elapsed engine hours: 9.7, 50.3 nm, average speed 5.6 kts., 9:02 hrs motoring.

Day 13 - Squirrel Cove

Tuesday, July 26, 2011.

We enjoy Squirrel Cove so much that we decided to spend another day here rather than move on.  The weather is cloudy but warm with a few light and variable breezes.  We spent the day really doing much of nothing but reading and relaxing.  I ran the generator from 0930 to 1440 to put a bit of a chill in the refer and a charge on the batteries.   

During this time I thoroughly planned our trip to Nanaimo which we will start on Friday.  Right now the thought is to do it in one long day.  Normally we travel down the east side of Georgia Strait and then cross over by end of Texada Island.  The benefits of this trip are that there are more places to stop and get out of any weather that may arise - Grief Point, Ballet Bay, Pender Harbor, or Jedediah Island; and believe it or not it's shorter by 7 nautical miles than going down the west side of the Strait.  The down side is that there's more traffic; you've got to deal with Area Whiskey Golf; and if there is a NW wind you will have a bit of beam sea once you get out of the lee of Lasqueti Island.  The other alternative is to go down the west side of Georgia Strait.  According to Environment Canada the long range forecast for Friday is light NW winds 5-15 knots.  The forecast for Saturday is SE winds 15-20 knots - ugh.  So now, the plan is to go tomorrow to Von Donop Inlet, then to Rebecca Spit on Thursday, and down to Nanaimo via the west side of Georgia Strait on Friday.  That way we avoid Area Whiskey Golf (which is supposed to be active), take advantage of a following sea, and ride the ebb current down to Nanaimo.  I do not want to be out on Georgia Strait with any kind of 15-20 knot SE winds.

I decided to thoroughly check the engine today in preparation for Friday's down Strait trip.  I looked for any drips, checked all fluids, and looked for any problems.  I added about 1/2 quart of transmission fluid, cleaned the raw water strainer, checked both ends of the oil cooler for debris, but other than that all checked out okay.  I think we're ready to tackle the monster.

We called some of our boating friends from Port McNeill on the cell phone.  We reached them while they were out on Taylor Bank out on Queen Charlotte Strait halibut fishing.  I let them know I was envious, but they said not to be because the fishing was quite poor for both halibut and salmon.  They even complained that getting prawns was a bit more of a challenge.  The only halibut they had caught were very small - less than 5 pounds - and had thrown them back.  I reviewed past logs and remembered how many fish, both salmon and halibut, that we had caught in past years.  I wondered if the decline in fisheries was due to over harvesting, or global warming, or a combination of things.  One thing is for certain the fishing is definitely not as good as it was.

The Squirrel Cove store had a nice selection of meats - chicken, steaks, pork, sausages, and various smoked meats from a local Cortes Island butcher.  One of things I spied was Mennonite sausages.  I have never eaten Mennonite sausage and so I bought them and will grill them for supper tonight.   They’re a bit different but very tasty.  I made a German Potato salad to go with them - a German evening.  We enjoyed our evening supper with a couple of cold beers up on the flying bridge because it was so nice out.  I finished the evening with a cigar and a tot of whiskey.