Day 14 - Squirrel Cove to Von Donop Inlet

Wednesday, July 27, 2011.

Woke to clear skies but then some morning clouds came in.  We pulled up anchor around 0930 to go to Von Donop Inlet.  The anchor and rode were very muddy and it took some time to clean them from that awfully sticky, stinky Squirrel Cove mud.

As we motored out of Squirrel Cove we had received an e-mail yesterday from a friend which told that the local Klahoose tribe wants to put in a marina in the western side of Squirrel Cove that would serve over 380 boats.  The marina would have a store, shops, bakery, restaurant, and other marine services.  The tribe has petitioned the Canadian government for the necessary permits.  The eastern, or inner portion, of Squirrel Cove would have mooring buoys placed around the bay.  Oh my!  This would absolutely ruin this gem of an anchorage.  I seriously doubt that considering the current economy that such a large marina could be financially feasible.  I know that I would not patronize this marina if it were built, preferring to anchor somewhere else.  I hope it never comes to be.  It amazes me how greed destroys so many special places.

Looking N up Lewis Channel

We motored out around Boulder Pt, then around Junction Pt, up Lewis Channel, rounding Bullock Bluff and then down into Sutil Channel.  All this time cruising at about 1700 rpm.  We had a good NW breeze blowing against us in Lewis Channel which completely subsided when we rounded Bullock Bluff and went into Sutil Channel.  We came down into Von Donop Inlet being careful to avoid the mid-channel rock (you want to hug the western shore).  We motored under slow bell and noticed that the inlet was not too crowded with anchored boats - at least not like years past - we only saw about a dozen boats or less.  We dropped the hook in the far south “hook” of Von Donop Inlet in 18’ of water on a rising tide at 1233.  There’s one other boat anchored here with a shore tie just N of us.  We had a quick snack and then went on a hike. 

We walked 2.0 km towards Squirrel Cove and then returned on the same trail.  The trail was not like other trails we had recently hiked but a gentle path with no steep climbs.  You could tell this trail was well used.  At the start of the trail there was even a menu of the restaurant (The Cove Restaurant) at Squirrel Cove tacked to a post.  The trail goes through second growth fir forests and older maple glens.  The trail is well marked.  While we were walking this trail I was hoping to meet up with the trail we hiked the other day (Day 7) from Squirrel Cove.  Until I got back to the boat I realized why the trail never met up with the other trail.  The dogs loved the walk.  Rocky ran the whole time up and down the trail and as usual probably covered twice the distance we did.  We didn't walk the whole way to Squirrel Cove, but turned around because the day was getting late.  I was concerned about how the Zipper was tied up to shore because there was a very high tide late this afternoon.  Sure enough when we returned to the Zipper it was a real challenge to get to it because of the high tide.  I had to bush whack through the trees and brush along the shore just to get to the painter.  Once I had the painter, I had to fight my way through some low hanging trees just to get in.  Once again, the dogs loved rumbling through the brush and must have thought this was great fun.  Hank at one point just stopped and stood belly deep in the warm water.  He looked at me as if he seemed to say, "Dad, this is oh so refreshing."  We finally got in to the Zipper a little scratched up.

Sailboats at anchor in Von Donop Inlet

We came back and took a sun shower out on the swim step from the water we had gathered the other day.  It was very refreshing.  I hoist the sun shower bag off of the boom.  Then you stand on the swim step and take your shower.  There's no clean up and it feels great. The only down-side is that shampoo and soap suds get into the bay.

For supper we made a grilled Vindaloo chicken dinner and sat out on the back deck.  Vindaloo is an Indian dish that has some curry spices in it with a lot of onions.  It is sweet and spicy.  The walk, a good supper, and wonderful weather made for a gorgeous evening.  The waters were very still - not even a breath of wind.  I too tried to match the stillness and quiet of the evening gently sipping my evening whiskey ration and thinking about days past and days to come.

Stats: Ending engine hours: 6148.3, elapsed engine hours: 3.3,17.0 nm, average speed 5.0 kts, 3:23 hours.

Day 13 - Squirrel Cove

Tuesday, July 26, 2011.

We enjoy Squirrel Cove so much that we decided to spend another day here rather than move on.  The weather is cloudy but warm with a few light and variable breezes.  We spent the day really doing much of nothing but reading and relaxing.  I ran the generator from 0930 to 1440 to put a bit of a chill in the refer and a charge on the batteries.   

During this time I thoroughly planned our trip to Nanaimo which we will start on Friday.  Right now the thought is to do it in one long day.  Normally we travel down the east side of Georgia Strait and then cross over by end of Texada Island.  The benefits of this trip are that there are more places to stop and get out of any weather that may arise - Grief Point, Ballet Bay, Pender Harbor, or Jedediah Island; and believe it or not it's shorter by 7 nautical miles than going down the west side of the Strait.  The down side is that there's more traffic; you've got to deal with Area Whiskey Golf; and if there is a NW wind you will have a bit of beam sea once you get out of the lee of Lasqueti Island.  The other alternative is to go down the west side of Georgia Strait.  According to Environment Canada the long range forecast for Friday is light NW winds 5-15 knots.  The forecast for Saturday is SE winds 15-20 knots - ugh.  So now, the plan is to go tomorrow to Von Donop Inlet, then to Rebecca Spit on Thursday, and down to Nanaimo via the west side of Georgia Strait on Friday.  That way we avoid Area Whiskey Golf (which is supposed to be active), take advantage of a following sea, and ride the ebb current down to Nanaimo.  I do not want to be out on Georgia Strait with any kind of 15-20 knot SE winds.

I decided to thoroughly check the engine today in preparation for Friday's down Strait trip.  I looked for any drips, checked all fluids, and looked for any problems.  I added about 1/2 quart of transmission fluid, cleaned the raw water strainer, checked both ends of the oil cooler for debris, but other than that all checked out okay.  I think we're ready to tackle the monster.

We called some of our boating friends from Port McNeill on the cell phone.  We reached them while they were out on Taylor Bank out on Queen Charlotte Strait halibut fishing.  I let them know I was envious, but they said not to be because the fishing was quite poor for both halibut and salmon.  They even complained that getting prawns was a bit more of a challenge.  The only halibut they had caught were very small - less than 5 pounds - and had thrown them back.  I reviewed past logs and remembered how many fish, both salmon and halibut, that we had caught in past years.  I wondered if the decline in fisheries was due to over harvesting, or global warming, or a combination of things.  One thing is for certain the fishing is definitely not as good as it was.

The Squirrel Cove store had a nice selection of meats - chicken, steaks, pork, sausages, and various smoked meats from a local Cortes Island butcher.  One of things I spied was Mennonite sausages.  I have never eaten Mennonite sausage and so I bought them and will grill them for supper tonight.   They’re a bit different but very tasty.  I made a German Potato salad to go with them - a German evening.  We enjoyed our evening supper with a couple of cold beers up on the flying bridge because it was so nice out.  I finished the evening with a cigar and a tot of whiskey.

Day 12 - Toba Inlet to Squirrel Cove

Monday, July 25, 2011.

Our visit to Toba Inlet was the zenith of our 2011 trip.  For the first time in so many years, I believe 19 years, we will not be going through the Yuculta's to points farther north.  I blame work schedules and fuel prices as the main culprits.  The urge to go farther is strong, but it will not happen this year.  Now it is time to start thinking about heading back.  Yesterday's Zipper trip up to Brem Bay left an indelible mark on me that will remain for a long time.  I love the mountains, the sights of snow on high, waterfalls, steep cliffs, and green seas.   

We untied and left Toba Wildernest Resort at 0830 to go back to Squirrel Cove for a couple of days.  Again we thought about many other options but the thought of weather, tides and currents, and how were we going to tackle the monster (Georgia Strait) going south.  We have to be back in Nanaimo for a crew change on Sunday, July 31.  That meant we had to be in Nanaimo on Saturday, July 30.  That leaves us only five days and two of them were reserved for tackling the monster so that left us three more days here in paradise.  One option is the Octopus Islands but since they are between two sets of rapids (Lower Rapids & Surge Narrows) the timing presents a problem.  The currents didn't favor us, that is  slack is not until later in the day and going in the wrong direction.  Another option was Prideaux Haven and Laura Cove but I really not in the mood to deal with crowds and it puts us too far away to get a good start on Thursday morning to go down Georgia Strait.  We are somewhat low on meats, fresh vegetables, bread and liquor and we know we can get that in Squirrel Cove.  We also want to continue with our plans of taking more walks.  So on to our old friend Squirrel Cove.

Weather is mostly cloudy but it is clearing.  We motored at 1700 rpm down Pryce Channel into Deer Passage and then down Lewis Channel and into Squirrel Cove.  For most of the way we took advantage of a nice flood current that pushed us nicely along.  In Deer Passage and Lewis Channel we were making good speed of over 7 knots while only at 1700 rpm.  I could tell slack at the Yuculta's was coming as we met so many boats going north.  I wished I could turn and join them.  The winds were light about 10 knots from the NW which also helped as a following sea pushing us along.  The skies are clearing and it looks to be warm today.  

After yesterday's dramatic scenery the cruise down Deer Passage and Lewis Channel was definitely anti-climatic.  The last big mountains and glimpses of high waterfalls were seen in Pryce Channel but quickly faded to rolling low hills.  Raza Island rises like a big pyramid but the northwest portion of West Redonda island is comprised of low rolling hills.  We passed Redonda Bay to our port where you could still see that a logging operation is taking place.  It didn't look too inviting as a possible anchorage and most cruising guides don't mention it at all.  

We came around Junction Pt. at the end of Lewis Channel, made a turn to starboard towards Squirrel Cove.  We could see that many boats were leaving Squirrel Cove.  We avoided the rocks just off of Boulder Pt. and turned to go into Squirrel Cove.  We motored to our usual anchoring spot in the far NW corner of the inside bay and dropped the hook in 20’ of water at ½ tide rising at 1200. 

Squirrel Cove gov't dock and store

We took the Zipper into the town of Squirrel Cove to get some additional provisions – meats, whiskey, ice.  I wanted ice so I could make some Caesars.  And, we dropped off the garbage that we had been accumulating from being out so long.  We walked to the store from the main government dock and found the store busy with people.  I noticed that the store and most of the town of Squirrel Cove was for sale.  We got an ice cream to go and headed back to the MV Independence.  

The afternoon had definitely turned nice and so I made some Caesars and we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon.  We enjoyed a delicious Pho for dinner.  We used the left over pork I had BBQ’d earlier with some beef broth and carrots.  A solitary passing cloud sprinkled some rain on us but it was only for a few minutes. It turned out to be another nice Squirrel Cove evening.

Stats: Ending engine hours: 6145.0, elspaed engine hours: 4.6, 20.0 nm, average speed 5.7 kts., 3:30 minutes motoring.

 

Independence Boat Pho

• 1/4 C yellow onion, chopped
• 1 T vegetable oil
• 1 carrot, julienned
• 1 T Bicks Red Pepper Relish, or a few canned pimentos
• 1/4 C sake
• 1 t fish sauce
• 1/2 t ground ginger
• 1/4 t ground cinnamon
• 1/2 t Cajun seasoning, or Cayenne pepper, or white pepper
• 1 can beef broth
• 2 C water
• 1 package Soba noodles or a package of Top Ramen (don't use seasoning packet)
• 2 grilled pork chops, cut in to pieces or strips
• 1 T fresh basil leaves, tear leaves into pieces

Over medium high heat saute onions with oil until they just start to brown on the edges about 5-6 minutes, then add the  julienned carrot and cook until almost tender.  Next, add the red pepper relish, sake, fish sauce, and spices and cook for about 1 minute.  Add the beef broth, water, soba noodles and left over grilled pork and simmer for 5-10 minutes.  Finally, add 1 T of fresh basil and serve.  Enjoy.