Short Trip to Hope Island

It's the first nice weekend of the year so we thought we'd make a short trip to Hope Island.  This has been the coldest spring on record and its supposed to be nice and warm. Being that it's going to be the first trip of the year... I thoroughly checked the engine - oil, coolant, raw water strainer, heat exchangers, and more.  I found a bit of caked salt build-up in the main aft heat exchanger.  Not sure where or why this salt build-up occurs.  It's big enough to almost clog the raw water flow into the heat exchanger.  After checking the engine I had to get the dinghy back on to the MV Independence.  This required filling the pontoons, checking for leaks and putting it on the swim step dinghy chocks.  This all checked out okay.  However when I laid down on the dock I glimpsed the Independence rudder covered with barnacles and mussels.  Ugh.  That means if I can see growth, there's more that I cannot see.  I know from experience that there's probably basketball sized "balls" of mussels growing off of the engine intake and other through-hulls.  So I don my dive gear and go clean up the growth.  It's not as bad as I thought on the rudder, prop, and skeg, but it's worse than I thought on the through-hulls - huge basketball sized "balls" of mussels growing on the through-hulls.  They come off easily with little effort.  I think, good I dove to clean this growth off no use giving mussels a free ride at my fuel expense.  I also scraped what I could off of the rudder, skeg, and prop.  I now think we're ready to go.  I wanted to leave at about 11 AM, but now it is after 3 PM and I'm beat.

We pull out of the slip and I'm glad I gave the prop and rudder a good cleaning because I remember I need the steerage to get out of my slip.  I have to make a 180 degree turn.  But it's not that easy to just turn I have to do some "jogging" to get out.  Wind and current will affect my out of the slip "jogging."  There's a slight breeze out of the N about 10 knots or less.  The tide is ebbing and it is a big tide - over a 17' drop between high and low.  There's a minus 2.2 tide today.  The stand (moment between low and high tide) for Olympia is at about 2:15 PM.  It's going to be a whopper of an incoming tide. 

As we get out of West Bay Marina, there's a lot of boats out in the Olympia Harbor.  Everybody is enjoying the first nice weather of the year.  We cruise slowly out as I watch the engine temperature come up.  I check the bilge to see if there are any leaks - I don't see any from my cleaning of the salt from the heat exchanger.  The engine temp rises to its normal mark and I increase the throttle to 1,800 rpm - cruising speed.  We're doing 6+ knots going out of Budd Inlet.  Once past the Olympia Shoal I make for Hunter Point about 6 nm away, due true N.  I can tell we're fighting the incoming flood since we're doing just barely over 6 knots.  Once we get close to Hunter Point we start to ride the incoming flood going to Totten Inlet.  We pass the Squaxin Shoal buoy and we're doing over 9 knots and the Squaxin buoy is almost under water from the current.  I can tell I'm drifting or "crabbing" to the west as I turn to go up Squaxin Passage to where I want to anchor.  When I get in Squaxin Passage with Hope Is directly to the W, I slow to an idle about 750 rpm and notice we're still doing over 5 knots going N.  I turn into the current to find my anchoring spot in about 20' of water about 50' from shore.  I drop the hook and let the current take us as I drop the chain rode.  The anchor sets quickly with a jolt.  I let out about another 10' of chain making the rode about 60' out.  A 3:1 rode should be satisfactory with settled weather.  There's two other sailboats anchored nearby.  I enjoy this spot because if you anchor in the right spot you get a bit of a feel of wilderness - you won't see any houses except for Hunter Pt.

I drop the dinghy to take the dogs to the beach.  I row furiously and still lose ground ending up much farther down the beach to the N than I wanted.  I let the dogs off and then pull the dinghy by its painter along the beach to a point were I can ride the current back to the Independence.  The dogs enjoy the beach, romping about and barking.  Nothing like "terra firma" for dogs.  It's a short beach visit.  The strong flood current catches the dinghy and I miss the Independence by about 20'.  I feel like I'm on a river.  Fortunately I am able to row against the current to tie up to the stern but I am exhausted.  I finally sit down to relax after a full day of activities and enjoy my first cold beer.  Almost immediately from all the day's events I find that I am exhausted and quickly take a short pre-dinner nap. 

View S towards Hunter Pt from anchorage

The cruise to Hope Island took just over an hour.  The evening is warm and enjoyable.  It's what boating is all about.  We enjoy the evening with a drink, a light dinner, and listening to the radio until it just starts to turn dark.

I wake early the next morning to a gorgeous clear morning.  There's thunder heads far to the south.  The morning is muggy.  We enjoy a relaxing morning with another beach visit and taking some time to read a book with a cup of coffee in hand - nothing finer.  We take off to return back home about noon.  We slowly cruise back to our home port slip by 2:00 PM.  I pour myself a shot of spirits after getting everything stowed away and take a quick break to enjoy what was a great quick get away weekend.

Destination: "The Broughton's"

One of the best cruising destinations on this earth for me is the Broughton archipelago, or simply known as the Broughton's.  These islands at the far east end of Queen Charlotte Strait are simply wonderful to explore and get lost within them.  The scenery varies from low lying wind swept islands to beautiful mountain scenery.  You can find popular anchorages that serve many boats to very private anchorages that you can have all to yourself.  The wildlife is quite varied and abundant - seals, orca, bear, deer, seabirds, eagles, ravens, and more.  If you're into history the area is quite rich with native history, explorations by Capt. Vancouver, logging, fishing, and those that want to get away from it all.  It simply is for me paradise.

Click to expand

Of course one of the reasons to go to the Broughtons is for seafood.  You can find good salmon fishing here - chinook, coho, and pinks.  You can find good bottom fishing here for halibut, ling cod, and yelloweye rockfish (red snapper) and more.  Much of the area is protected by Rockfish Conservation Areas (RCAs) so you will need to consult a DFO pamphlet prior to fishing.  There's wonderful shrimping to be found in many of the inlets, and if you're a scuba diver you can get rock scallops too.  There are many incredible scuba diving locations.  Some of the best scuba diving on the planet can be found here.  If you're interested in scuba diving check out my good friend Steve Lacasse from Sun Fun Divers in Port McNeill.

If going for a walk is also part of your adventure there's plenty of hikes to be had too.  In Greenway Sound you can hike up to Broughton lake for a refreshing swim.  The BC Forest Service has several established areas for hiking at Turnbull Cove, Moore Bay, and Greenway Sound.  We have also simply hiked on the many abandoned logging roads for a refreshing hike - just stay away from active logging areas.

If you're into learning about the area's history, a stop in Alert Bay to visit the U'mista Cultural Museum is a must.  You can visit other native sites such as Mamalilaculla, Karlukwees, Matilpi, and Heath Bay but remember these sites are private property and must be treated with absolute respect.  If in doubt ask for permission to visit these locations.  Often a guide will be present to tell you about the area.  If you look hard you can find pictographs on the rocks of Vancouver's long ago visit in some remote bays.

Here's some of our favorite spots:

Click to expand

1. Carriden Bay, Grappler Sound
2. Crease Island, Village Islands Group, Knight Inlet
3. Baker Island Bight, Fife Sound
4. Joe Cove, Eden Island, Fife Sound
5. Prawns from Kingcome Inlet
6. Indian Passage, Fife Sound
7. Turnbull Cove, Grappler Sound
8. Spring Passage
9. Cullen Harbor, Fife Sound

We've been traveling to the Broughtons for 20+ years and still have never anchored or visited every spot.  I have found that there's something new to be found almost every time we've visited the area.  If you're going to make the Broughton's your destination, know that June can be rainy & cold, July can be nice but windy, and August is known as "Fogust."  Generally the weather pattern is for calm mornings with afternoon northwestern winds of 15-25 knots.  Of course the farther you go into the inlets the calmer the weather will be.

If you're going to visit the Broughton's I suggest you make Port McNeill your base.  There's a great marina there, groceries, fuel, and supplies to be had.  It's about 4 hours drive by car from Nanaimo if you plan to have guests visit you.  Many float planes service Port McNeill and the area from Seattle and Vancouver.  Might I suggest that from Port McNeill you make a "circle route" to do your Broughton's exploration. You will need CHS Charts 3547 & 3515. Start by visiting the islands in and around Blackfish Sound & the Village Group, then cross Knight Inlet into the Baker-Insect-Eden Island archipelago by Fife Sound, then to the Burdwood Group & Fife Sound, then to Sutlej Channel going up to Grappler Sound & the many anchorages there, and finally out Wells Passage crossing Queen Charlotte Strait ending at Port McNeill.  We've done this "circle route" many, many times.  Future posts will describe some of the above locations and anchorages in greater detail.  If you have questions regarding the above area, don't be afraid to leave a comment and I will try to respond.

We enjoy fresh caught rockfish (Quillback, Black, Copper, etc.) a lot.   Here's a favorite MV Independence recipe we invented over the many years while cruising in the Broughton's.  We call this dish, "Rockfish Mediterranee."  I hope you enjoy it as much as we do.

Ingredients:

• 2-4 rockfish fillets
• 2 tbsp butter
• 2 tbsp onion, chopped
• 1 tsp garlic, chopped
• 1 cup tomato chopped
• 1 tbsp capers
• 3 tbsp green olives with pimentos, sliced
• 1 tsp dried oregano
• 1 tsp dried basil
• 1 tsp lemon juice
• 2 tbsp sweet vermouth or Japanese mirin
• 1 tsp Cajun seasoning
• 4 cups cooked pasta

Heat skillet with butter over medium heat, add onion and garlic and cook 3-5 minutes until onions are soft.  Add tomato, capers, green olives, herbs, lemon juice and vermouth.  Let this cook for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally.  Reduce the heat to low.  Lightly pat the fish fillets with the Cajun seasoning and place the fish fillets on top of the tomato mixture, cover and let the fish steam for 5-7 minutes.  Serve fish and sauce over top of cooked pasta.  Add salt & pepper to taste.  Enjoy.

Favorite Anchorages - Beaver Inlet, Loughborough Inlet

A great, not too popular anchorage that is north of Desolation Sound is Beaver Inlet.  Beaver Inlet is a small inlet that extends west off of the much larger and very scenic Loughborough Inlet.  It's a "bomb-proof" anchorage that's just off of the beaten waterborne path of Chancellor Channel.  My opinion is that it is very scenic, plus it offers some good opportunities for getting seafood - particularly crab and shrimp.  We used it one year as a cruising destination because we didn't have as much time to go farther north.  It offered us some isolation (which I like), a good safe anchorage, and plenty of daytime opportunities for fishing and exploring.

Click to see full image.

Loughborough Inlet is about 18 nm miles long.  As you work your way up the inlet the mountains rise steeply on either side of the inlet.  Like most BC fjords the inlet terminates where a river enters and the waters are shoal and milky and depths are hard to determine.  There's not too many other anchoring opportunities for Loughborough Inlet since small bays of Sidney, Heydah, and Frazer are too deep for safe anchoring.  Where you do find a decent anchorage depth you will find yourself possibly swinging in to shore.  There's also a lot of logging going on in Loughborough Inlet.

View of Franklyn Range from Beaver Inlet anchorage.

Beaver Inlet is about 4 nm miles from start of Loughborough Inlet from Chancellor Channel.  Beaver Inlet itself is about 3 nm in length.  On the south side of Beaver Inlet there are some very scenic mountains of the Franklyn Range.  On the north side of the inlet there are some lower lying hills.  From the end of Beaver Inlet it is only about 3 miles (as the crow flies) from the end of Forward Harbor to the west.  When anchored near the end of Beaver Inlet you can look up the inlet and see snowy tops of the Pembroke Range.

The holding in Beaver Inlet is excellent in thick clay/mud in depths about 30-40'.  Once while anchored here a storm blew through and we probably had a few gusts of 30 knots or more and never moved an inch.  The weather radio reported storm force winds in Johnstone Strait of 50 knots or more.  Some westerly winds will enter through the low lying area from Forward Harbor to the west.  However, I welcome these winds as they keep the bugs (horseflies & mosquitoes) in the woods and keep us cool on hot days.  There's plenty of anchoring space in Beaver Inlet so even if there are other boats anchored you can still feel alone at your anchoring spot.

Crabbing can be good in Beaver Inlet, but occasionally a commercial crabber will set their pots in the Inlet too.  Also there are some year-round residents in Sidney Harbor just north of Beaver Inlet and in the area that will set pots here too.  A fish biologist friend of mine recently did an underwater survey for the Department of Fisheries and Oceans (DFO) and was amazed at the number of young juvenile Dungeness crab he found here.  But again, crabbing can be spotty from year to year.  One year instead of setting pots I simply paid the commercial crabber for some crabs.  I believe I got an incredible deal of big fresh Dungeness crab, helped the local economy, and made another coastal friend.

Nice big spot shrimp from Loughborough.

Shrimping can be excellent in Loughborough Inlet.  In fact, Loughborough is known for its spot shrimp.  You can set shrimp pots almost anywhere and get some shrimp. Once we set one shrimp pot and got well over 100 spot shrimp all over 5" long.  Not more than 100 yards away the other pot had maybe 60 coon stripe shrimp.  Who knows, the bait and depth were the same.  Just be aware that the current does run through Loughborough Inlet which can greatly affect the number of shrimp you might get (see previous post on catching shrimp).  Also, Loughborough Inlet is popular with commercial shrimpers which may also affect how many shrimp you catch.  If setting and retrieving shrimp pots is not your thing, a resident in Sidney Bay will sell you local caught Loughborough Inlet shrimp.

You can also use Beaver Inlet as a base camp for exploring Loughborough Inlet.  We have dinghy explored Sidney Bay to the north as well as some small islands and bays on the east side of Loughborough Inlet.  We found some absolutely gorgeous spots filled with beautiful wildflowers.  We've seen mink and martens, otters, as well as a few bears in the area.  The past few years I've noticed a pair of nesting bald eagles in Beaver Inlet.  You will also see quite a few homes that are either summer residences or a few permanent residences.  Some buildings are "ghost houses" that probably told of better times.  Finally Blind Channel Marina is about 12 nm miles away if you need any crucial fuel, groceries, or liquor.  All in all I believe you will find Beaver Inlet and Loughborough Inlet a fun stop on your exploration of the BC coast.

Because of the shrimp bounty we have experienced in Loughborough Inlet I'll share with you one of my favorite recipes that's sure to be a hit when you raft up with a bunch of friends - Shrimp & Sausage Gumbo.  I also always make my own Cajun seasoning prior to leaving on a trip.

Cajun seasoning:

• 1/4 tsp ground white pepper
• 1/4 tsp onion powder
• 1/4 tsp ground thyme
• 1/2 tsp cayenne pepper
• 1/2 tsp ground black pepper
• 1 tsp salt

Gumbo ingredients:

• 1/4 cup vegetable oil
• 1/4 cup flour
• 1/2 yellow onion, chopped
• 2 stalks of celery, chopped
• 1 green bell pepper, chopped
• 2-3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
• 1/2 lb. Andouille sausage or whatever you have on board (could even be canned chicken)
• 2-3 chicken bullion cubes
• 4 cups water
• 1 can diced or crushed tomatoes
• 1 can okra, drained
• 2 3/4 tsp of cajun seasoning 
• 1 Tblsp of dried parsley
• 12-16 medium sized shrimp tails, peeled
• 3 cups cooked rice

Method:

1. Chop all vegetables in advance, pre-open cans, and have all ingredients ready.
2. Make a roux.  Pour vegetable oil into a heavy pot and over high heat, heat oil until shimmering.  Add flour and continue to stir until oil-flour mixture looks the color of melted chocolate - a deep, dark, rich brown.  Important thing here is to continuously stir the oil flour mix.  If needed add more oil to make smooth.  This will take about 2-3 minutes.
3. Add chopped onion, celery, and green pepper to the roux and mix well.  As soon as the vegetables start to get soft (about 2-3 minutes) add sausage.  Again stir frequently until meat just begins to brown (about 3-5 minutes).
4. Reduce heat to low, and add canned tomatoes, okra, bullion cubes, water and Cajun seasoning.  Stir well and let simmer, covered for about 30 minutes or so.
5. Turn off the heat, add shrimp, dried parsley, mix well and cover and let stand for 5 minutes.  Meanwhile put a scoop of rice in a bowl and when ready ladle hot gumbo over rice and serve with plenty of Louisiana hot sauce.  Enjoy.

New Batteries!

The time had finally come to replace the dead and dying batteries in the MV Independence.  The MV Independence has 3 8D batteries.  One that is used primarily for starting, and two that are used for the house, but can be used for starting too.  The dread is getting these behemoth batteries out of the engine room.  The MV Independence does not have a "stand up" engine room, rather like a lot of boats a "kneeling" engine room.

First step is that prior to removing the wires attached to each battery I made sure that I had them adequately labeled which wire went to which battery.  I know my current configuration is a mess and not satisfactory, but I will clean it up.  It's been this way for 20+ years and the wiring will get organized.

Next was removing each battery from the engine room.  The MV Independence is configured that the engine hatch that provides access to the engine room is almost directly over the batteries.  Generally when you stand in the engine room before dropping down and kneeling in, you are doing this on top of the battery box.  So to get the batteries out requires some thought on where are you going to stand.  The engine room hatch is approximately 30" square.  The batteries are seated deep in a battery box and the distance from the base of the battery box to the main deck is just over four feet.  Consider that each battery weighs over 130 lbs!  After considerable discussion we decided this, one would stand in the engine room and get that initial lift to where a second person kneeling on the main deck could grab the other handle and together lift the battery out of the engine room.  This ended up working pretty good.  We also decided that we would remove each battery - one at a time - from the boat to the dock cart.  Each step - from deck to doorway, doorway to gunnel, gunnel to finger pier, finger pier to dock cart was carefully scripted and done.  This procedure was repeated two more times successfully.  Finally all the batteries were out of the MV Independence.

I carefully scripted the timing of the removal of the batteries with the tide.  What? Yes, you don't want to end up pushing almost 400 lbs. of batteries up a steep ramp from the dock to the land.  Especially in Olympia where you might have a 14' low tide.  I timed our removal for high tide and moving the batteries from the dock to shore was easy.  However, by the time we would replace the batteries the tide was going to be low, so we would have to deal with a steep ramp but going down is easier than up.

I decided to purchase the new batteries at Pacific Power Batteries in Everett.  Yes, this is a long drive from Olympia to Everett, but the savings in the purchase price would more than make up for the gas.  Pacific Power Batteries uses Exide batteries which are good quality batteries.  Additionally, they have excellent customer service and know a lot about batteries.  I purchased a starting battery and two deep cycle batteries, again all 8D sized batteries. The guys at Pacific Power Batteries were amazed that I had gotten eight years out of Sears Die Hard batteries.  Sears Die Hard batteries don't have a good battery reputation.  If you need batteries I would highly recommend Pacific Power Batteries.

After the drive up and back, along with a stop in Seattle for lunch - dim sum.  It was now time to do the reverse - put the batteries in the boat.  First of all the tide was low, it was a 0' tide and the ramp from shore to dock was steep.  We had four people help, two pushing against the cart, and two holding the cart back as we slowly went down the steep ramp.  I could just imagine the cart flying down the ramp and off the end of the dock and 400 lbs of batteries into the bay.  Fortunately this was not the case.  Again, we did everything in step-wise fashion from dock cart to engine room.  It was much easier installing the batteries than removing them.  I simply made some battery connections but didn't do all the connections since I promised I was going to do it right this time.  That's coming next.  For now I was happy enough to know that the job was complete and hopefully would not need to be done again for at least five years.

What's next?  Time for a haul-out.

Favorite Anchorages - Cordero Islands Cove

One of my favorite anchorages north of Desolation Sound is "Cordero Islands Cove."  I don't believe this is the established name, because on the charts the small cove is unnamed, but it's what I call this little gem of an anchorage.  It's kind of like anchoring near a river; in the early morning or late evening when things begin to quiet down you can hear the nearby Greene Point Rapids.

Not to be used for navigation

There's good holding of grey clay/thick mud and kelp.  I've never had any challenges here with setting an anchor.  The current does move through the cove and will help you keep your anchor set.  It's well sheltered from the westerly winds that blow down Chancellor Channel.  You'll get enough of a breeze to cool you down on hot days when it's blowing a gale in Johnstone Strait.  Once we waited here a couple of days to avoid a big blow in Johnstone Strait.  The cove is also sheltered from the wakes of the many passing boats that travel by in Cordero channel.  At times I've seen as many as six boats anchored here and maybe that's getting close to the limit.  It's not a big anchorage.  You'll want to anchor early in the afternoon before the anchorage fills up.  Anchoring depths vary from 60' to 30' at high tide.  There's only one way to enter the cove and that is between the two larger islands east of Greene Point Rapids marked "59" and "37" on the chart.  There is some kelp in the entrance and you'll want to stay west of that.  Do not try to enter from the eastern end of the cove as there are a lot of rocks and shoals.

Blind Channel Marina is about 2 nm south of the anchorage and Cordero Lodge is about 2 nm east.  Both are easy dinghy trips, but note there are some strong currents to get to either location so I'd recommend a good reliable motor on your dinghy.  Blind Channel Marina has a full store and restaurant (you'll need to call ahead to make reservations).  You can get fresh bread, groceries, vegetables, liquor, and souvenirs at Blind Channel Marina.  You can also go on a nice hike to visit the "big cedar tree" by Blind Channel.  Or, you can enjoy a wonderful Schnitzel or other German cuisine at Cordero Lodge.  Again, call ahead for reservations.  It's also fun to explore by dinghy the many islands that are at the western end of the cove.  The island marked "37" has a nice flat, smooth beach rock at the western end of the island for sun bathing and watching boats go by.

MV Independence at anchor at Cordero Islands Cove

I've stayed here at Cordero Islands Cove both on my way going "up" the BC coast as well as when I am returning back home.  Most of the time I stay at Cordero Islands Cove as a final stop prior to going south through the Yuculta's.  The Yuculta's are about 13 nm away or about 2.5 hours for the MV Independence to plan to hit slack at Gillard Rapids in the Yuculta's.  Or, as I am going "upcoast" I can listen to the weather reports (WX 1 Comox Coast Guard Radio) about the wind speeds at Fanny Island in Johnstone Strait.  Fanny Island is about 21 nm west via either Current Passage on Johnstone Strait, or whether you go via Wellbore Channel & Sunderland Channel. I prefer staying at Cordero Islands Cove to anchoring at Forward Harbor about 14 nm miles away.

There's some salmon fishing to be had nearby Cordero Islands Cove, either down Cordero Channel or out down by Chatham Point.  I prefer to fish Cordero Channel since its more sheltered and there's not as many boats.  Unfortunately there isn't any crab to be had here because the current is so strong.  The last two times we've anchored at Cordero Islands Cove we have seen black bears on the beach at the far east end of the cove.

I hope you give Cordero Islands Cove a try sometime when you are going "up coast" or coming home, or perhaps just another anchorage as you explore the waters beyond Desolation Sound.  One of my best memories of anchoring at Cordero Islands Cove was sitting on the deck during a blustery, but beautifully sunny and warm day sipping a Canadian Caesar.  A Canadian Caesar is a truly Canadian drink.  It's a bit spicy but oh so refreshing on a hot day.  Here's the recipe.

• 2 cups of Motts Clamato Juice (I prefer Canadian Clamato vs. US Clamato - there is a difference)
• 1/2 tsp of Worcestershire Sauce
• 1/8 tsp (or a few shakes) of Tabasco Sauce
• pinch of celery salt
• 4 spears of pickled asparagus
• 4 ounces of vodka
• ice cubes

Mix Clamato, Worcestershire Sauce, Tabasco, and celery salt together in a pitcher. Stir to mix well. Add to each glass a one to two pickled asparagus spears, fill each glass half full with ice cubes,  and add a shot or two of vodka.  Pour prepared Clamato juice over ice in glass.  Serve with a wedge of a lime.  Enjoy.

Summer Trip Planning - Johnstone Strait

Traveling north from Puget Sound to get to some great Canadian cruising grounds such as the Broughtons, or Hakai, or the BC Central Coast, or farther yet to Alaska you've got several cruising challenges.  In a previous post I talked about "Crossing the Monster" or navigating across Georgia Strait.  I also talked about navigating the series of "Canadian Rapids."  This post is about one more challenging leg - navigating Johnstone Strait.

Click to view full image.

Johnstone Strait is a major marine highway to and from Salish Sea and places farther north.  Other than going "outside" you will have to navigate this Strait, and it is a busy route.  When traveling Johnstone Strait you will encounter all sorts of marine traffic - cruise ships, freighters, tugs & tows, log barges, fishing boats, and other pleasure boats.  If that's not enough, Johnstone Strait is also a natural weather and water "funnel."   Johnstone Strait goes pretty much east - west.  To the south you have the Vancouver Island mountains and to the north you have the Coast Range.  All the water in Johnstone Strait and the numerous connecting fjords and inlets all ebb west out of Johnstone Strait - this is important to note.  Weather wise, any bad weather out of the SE is comes up from the Strait of Georgia and gets funneled west into Johnstone Strait, and the summer high pressure that brings the good weather is funneled east down Johnstone Strait.  Depending on your route, at a minimum you will have to deal with about 13 miles of Johnstone Strait.  I have been traveling up and down Johnstone Strait for over 20 years and I have come up with five areas of caution.

1. Chatham Point.  At this point Johnstone Strait starts from Discovery Passage.  The prevailing westerly winds coming down Johnstone Strait will meet a strong ebb current coming out of Discovery Passage possibly creating very rough sea conditions.  You can listen to the VHF weather radio to get wind speeds from the Chatham Point Light House.  It is not uncommon to hear of gale force winds and four or five foot moderate seas here.  You will also have to contend with marine traffic going north and south.  As a result I tend to avoid cruising this route.
2. Helmcken Island.  Again, westerly winds and strong ebbing currents can create rough sea conditions here.  Note that north of Helmcken Island is called 'Current Passage' and westbound ship traffic uses this route.  South of Helmcken Island is called 'Race Passage' and eastbound ship traffic uses this route.  To avoid problems you'll probably want to travel the same direction as the marine traffic.You can listen to the continuous VHF weather radio (WX1 Comox Coast Guard Radio) for "Fanny Island" to get reports of wind speeds.  Fanny Island is about five nautical miles west of Helmcken Island.  Again, because of weather and marine traffic I generally avoid cruising this route.
3. Port Neville.  I generally stay on the far northern side of Johnstone Strait which keeps me out of most of the marine traffic.  However, the seas can get quite rough and confused here from currents that drain out Port Neville as they hit Johnstone Strait.  Also, it seems that there is commonly a lot of debris in the water in this area.  I have seen logs, kelp knots, lines, plastic bags, and other things can can ruin your day.  So keep a sharp lookout and avoid going through any kelp knots where plastic bags and lines can commonly be.  You can find some refuge from strong westerly winds in Port Neville and I've anchored here before, but the current really moves through the channel.  I've only used it in an emergency.
4. Central Johnstone Strait.  You will find no refuge from the frequent strong westerly winds that blow down Johnstone Strait here.  When looking at Johnstone Strait currents, you will notice that many times there is little or no flood current in Johnstone Strait because of all the rivers that drain into the surrounding inlets and fjords which drain into Johnstone Strait.  My experience is that you want to avoid traveling this stretch of Johnstone Strait during a strong ebb current.  When the westerly winds meet a strong ebb current moving west it will cause big waves to form providing you a rough and uncomfortable cruise.
5. Western Johnstone Strait - Blackney & Weynton Passages.  Again, the problem here is the mix of westerly winds, strong ebb currents, and marine traffic.  I have been caught in this terrible and dangerous mix and it was not too fun.  One summer the westerly winds were 35 knots or more, the current was ebbing at 5+ knots creating seas of five to six feet with cresting waves.  I had to dodge several ships in the area - meaning I had to temporarily turn broadside to the seas.  When we reached Port McNeill the crew wanted off the boat just to stand on solid ground.

Sunderland Channel looking WSW into Johnstone Strait

The route I suggest (see above route is marked in red) is to travel down Chancellor Channel, Wellbore Channel, Sunderland Channel and turn to starboard just passing the Broken Islands and into Havannah Channel.  If you choose to go this route you will only have to travel about 13 nautical miles of Johnstone Strait. It is a bit longer route, but it makes up for the distance in comfort and scenery.  There are also several good anchorages to wait out any strong westerly blows - Greene Point Cove, Blind Channel Marina, Forward Harbor, and Port Harvey.  You'll get a good idea of what the sea conditions are in Johnstone Strait as soon as you exit Wellbore Channel and go into Sunderland Channel.  If they're too rough, you can choose to return to anchor in Forward Harbor. 

Currents for Central Johnstone Strait for July 25, 2011

In the summer the best plan is to often travel very early in the morning to avoid the stronger afternoon westerly winds.  Check WX 1 Comox Weather Radio and listen for the wind speeds at Fanny Island, along with light house reports from Chatham Point and Pulteney Point (Malcolm Island and by Port McNeill).  Pick your time to avoid traveling during any strong ebbs when there are strong westerly winds.  The currents for July 25 are good because you will be at the 'tail end' of the ebb in the morning.  If you combine this with the previous post of "Summer Trip Planning - Canadian Rapids" you will notice that they go together well.  Now I just hope the wind isn't blowing hard on that day.

Finally, when you get past Johnstone Strait you are in some of the best cruising grounds in the world.  So don't let the challenge of Johnstone Strait stop you.  And, when cruising Johnstone Strait keep a lookout for orcas (Killer Whales).  Near the far western end of Johnstone Strait on the Vancouver Island side is the famed "Robson Bight" where orcas can commonly be seen.

Favorite Anchorages - McMicken Island, Case Inlet

Beautiful McMicken Island looking East

There's a small South Puget Sound gem called McMicken Island.  It's a great anchorage with a good holding bottom and some lee from the prevailing SW winds.  There's plenty to see and do, but mostly it's a great place to anchor, and do nothing.  Well, do nothing as in read a book, relax with a nap, tinker about on your boat, row to shore and take a short beach stroll, you know - nothing.

At low tides you can do some clamming either at the beach at McMicken Island or at the nearby DNR beach.  At very low tides you might even get lucky to dig up a geoduck.  Just make sure you know the regulations, have a license, and know if there's a red tide alert.  If clamming is not for you, you can take an extended dinghy ride to Jarrell's Cove, or Pleasant Harbor, or even Allyn.  We often take the long trip (about 8 nm) to Allyn and enjoy an old fashioned hamburger at "Bob's Big Burgers."  But mostly anchoring at McMicken Island isn't about doing things its about doing nothing.

The past few times we've anchored at McMicken Island we have seen plenty of wildlife.  There seems to be some resident bald eagles that have nested on the island.  You will see deer in the late evening or early morning coming out on to the spit that connects McMicken to Hartstene Island.  We've even seen some otters there.  Of course you have all the other wildlife in the area - seals, gulls, bay ducks, and various tweety birds.

Not to be used for navigation

Most people approach McMicken Island from the south.  Make sure NEVER to cut between McMicken Island and Hartstene Island as it is shoal.  My recommendation is to always approach the anchorage coming around the north end of McMicken Island - giving the island a wide berth.  Anchor just west of McMicken Island and north of the bight that extends from Hartstene Island.  The bottom affords good holding of thick mud in about 20-30' of water.  There are also three state park mooring buoys along the west shore of McMicken Island and a few on the east side of the island.  Although if your vessel has a deep draft you may want to avoid the inner two mooring buoys on the west side of the island on a big minus tide.  I've never stayed at the buoys on the east side of the island as it is open to wind and waves coming up Case Inlet.

The island is not all a state park, the southern most end of the island is private property.  There is no water and pit toilets.  No fires are allowed.  Also, there is some poison ivy in the area.  There's some great swimming to be had here just off the bight on an incoming tide.  The shallow water will warm up quickly over the mud.  The kids will enjoy beach-combing for sand dollars and other shell trinkets.  Needless to say the anchorage is quite popular in the summer, but there's always room for another boat.

Here's a great recipe for clam nectar you might enjoy using fresh McMicken Island clams.
Ingredients:

• 2.5 quarts fresh seawater (strained and boiled for 5 or more minutes) or fresh water with 2 Tbsp of sea salt mixed in.
• 5 lbs. clams in the shell
• 1 stick butter (1 cup)
• 2 cups white wine
• 1 yellow onion, chopped
• 3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

Method:

Check clams by knocking two together.  The sound should not sound hollow but have a "click" to it.  Throw away any "bad" clams.  Strain seawater to remove any seaweed or other things.  Boil seawater thoroughly for 5 minutes or more to sterilize it.  Seawater is important because it contains the right amount of salt.  When salt water is done boiling, remove pot from heat, add clams and remaining ingredients, cover and let sit for about 5-10 minutes until all clams are opened.  Throw away any clams not opened.

Serve by putting clams in a big bowl along with coffee cup mugs full of hot clam nectar on the side.  We also serve crusty, garlicky french bread to dip into the clam nectar.  Save any unused clams and clam nectar for clam chowder, clam dip, and clam linguine. Enjoy.

For more information on clamming at McMicken Island visit this website.

Time for new batteries

Believe it or not, the batteries in the MV Independence have lasted for over eight (8) years.  The MV Independence uses three batteries - one 4D as a starting battery, and two 8D's as house batteries.  The batteries are all lead acid (flooded) batteries and not AGM or Gel batteries.  The MV Independence does have a permanent battery charger and while at anchor uses a small solar panel to help keep the batteries charged.

Using a hydrometer to see how "good"
your batteries are.

I am a "battery miser" and maybe that's why I was able to get over eight years out of these batteries.  However, as I tried to start the boat recently they're definitely dead.  I checked all the battery connections and they are all secure and good.  The battery voltage indicator at the helm showed that the batteries were good, that is over 13.5 volts.  But, as soon as you hit the starter button the sound was not of a healthy battery charge, rather that tell tale sound of a low or dead battery.  To confirm this I did a quick hydrometer check (specific gravity) and it showed that indeed all batteries are definitely low or dead.  A hydrometer is an essential tool that should be in every boater's tool kit.  It will definitely tell you what the status of your batteries are.  I knew last summer that my battery life was coming to an end - the windlass sounded slow, the starter was not crisp, and the voltmeter showed that it took a long time for my batteries to recover.

Eight years is a long time for the batteries to last.  How did I achieve this?  I've replaced almost all of my house lights with LED bulbs; I only run my refrigerator during daylight hours and then at a low setting (1-2); use a cooler for most items; carefully watch my battery voltage levels; use personal lighting devices versus using house lighting (lanterns, LED reading lights, etc.); and use an anchor light which runs from an independent battery.  Being a "battery miser" is not always fun.  The crew is always complaining about my concern on battery usage.  Maybe if I counted up the amount of money I've spent on ice I would be purchasing batteries every 4 or 5 years - I've never given it much thought.

Lately, I've been doing a lot of Internet research on what batteries to buy and where.  The cheapest option is to go to Sears and buy a "Die Hard."  This may not be the best option.  Instead, take an inventory of what your battery needs are and purchase an appropriate battery.  That is, identify the power requirements of your boat when it is at anchor, that is the refrigerator, lights, radio, and more and calculate the Amp Hours (Ah) required and compare that to the battery you are buying.  You never want to discharge a deep cycle battery more than 70% because it will never fully recover from this draining.  So, how does this all work?

Let's assume your Amp Hours (Ah) is 25 Ah counting all lights, refrigerator and more.  You might want to be a conservative "battery miser" like me and don't want to exceed 60% depth of discharge, giving you a 10% cushion.  Look at the chart and you'll see that 60% is about about 2 hours.  That will put you looking at purchasing a bit more expensive 200 Ah battery.  The cheaper battery might be only 125 Ah.  Multiply 200 Ah x 60% = 120 Ah (@ 2 hr. rate).  120 Ah / 2 hours = 60 Amps.  60Amps  / 25 Ah  = 2.4 hours.  So you're safe for another 36 minutes when your battery would be at 60% of depth of discharge capacity.  If you can lower your Ah you can run your batteries longer, for example  60 Amps / 20 Ah = 3 hours; or 60 Amps / 15 Ah = 4 hours!  You just need to decide how much power you want to use, or how much of a "battery miser" you want to be.  Conversely, if you chose the 125 Ah battery, you would only have 1.5 hours at 25 Ah!

What will take you the most time is inventorying your power consumption for a day at anchor.  I list each item (e.g., refrigerator, cabin lights, cell phone charger, radio, heater, etc.), the power draw in Amps for each, and an estimated time on or running for each, then multiply the time by the Amps to get Ah.  Some items may be only use mA or milliAmps which you have to divide by 1,000 to get the Amps. Add them all together to get your daily Ah needs. Don't forget to include your stereo which has a connection to the battery and uses power to display the clock!
 
Finally, rough estimates for a 4D flooded batteries deep cycle 200 Ah battery (lead acid vs. AGM or Gel) are about $170 versus over $400.  The $230 I would spend extra is not - in my opinion - worth it.  The argument of flooded versus other batteries could go on and on.  Yes, flooded batteries require more attentive maintenance - checking water levels, adding water, etc..  However, for me the flooded battery is my choice.  Flooded batteries have served the MV Independence for over 20 years. 

Stay tuned for an upcoming blog post on the project of removing and installing the new batteries.

Favorite Eats - Singapore Noodles & Shrimp

View from Althorp Pt. anchorage

In a previous post about catching shrimp I said I'd follow up with some shrimp recipes.  This one is one of the favorites from guests and crew of the MV Independence. Singapore noodles and shrimp always gets rave reviews.  Maybe because of the fresh shrimp, or maybe its because we're at some beautiful anchorage, or because we are surrounded by friends and family, or maybe all of the above.  Finally, it's oh so fast and easy to prepare, especially on your boat where ingredients and space matter.

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1/2 of a small yellow onion, chopped fine
• 2 cloves garlic, minced (or 1 tsp of garlic powder)
• 1/2 red sweet bell pepper, cut into thin strips
• 1 small carrot (6"), cut into thin match stick sized pieces
• 2 tbsp of curry powder (we use Madras curry powder)
• 2 tbsp of sweet vermouth or mirin
• 2 tbsp of soy sauce
• 2 tbsp of sambal oelek (red chili sauce) - more or less to taste
• 12-20 large shrimp tails, peeled
• 2 cups cooked al dente spaghetti or vermicelli
• 2-3 green onions, chopped

Instructions:
Cook pasta and when done, drain and set aside.

Singapore noodles with fresh shrimp

In a large pan over medium high heat, melt butter and stir fry shrimp until just barely done about 2-3 minutes.  Shrimp will just start to turn pink.  Do not overcook.  Remove shrimp and set aside.  In the same pan that you just cooked the shrimp in add the olive oil and let it get hot.  Once the oil is hot, add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion just turns clear and soft.  Next, add the carrots, peppers to the onions and garlic and cook for two minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add the red chili sauce, the vermouth or mirin, and the curry powder and mix all ingredients well and cook for one minute.  Now, return the shrimp to the pan and finish cooking them, mixing the shrimp with all the ingredients.  Finally add the pasta to the pan and mix it well with all the ingredients.  Pour the soy sauce over the prawn and noodle mixture and mix well again.  We top it off with green onions and serve the dish family style, letting everyone serve themselves.  Keep the sambal oelek (red chili sauce) and soy sauce on the side for those who want more.  Make sure you have a nice bottle of chilled Chardonnay or Riesling to go with dinner.

We often serve Singapore Noodles with a side of "sunomono" - thinly sliced cucumbers in a dish with a bit of rice vinegar, sake or mirin, a dash of soy sauce, and a drop of sesame oil.  Mix the ingredients to taste, then add the cucumbers and let sit, chilled, for about 30 minutes.  For a special treat you might want to add a few lumps of crab meat to the sunomono.

After 25 years of going "upcoast" and catching shrimp we've got a lot more recipes like Shrimp with Gorgonzola Sauce, Thai curry shrimp, Gumbo, and more.  If readers are interested let me know and I can post more recipes.  Enjoy.

Favorite Anchorages - Montague Harbor

Montague Harbor is always a Canadian first or last for the MV Independence.  It's either the first stop in Canada as we go "upcoast" or our last stop in Canada as we head back home; either way it's a favorite of ours.  It offers us so much - a great place to relax and lay on the beach, or stretch our legs and go for a nice walk, or take a swim, or just do nothing, or all of the above.

Approaches to Montague Harbor are easy.  From the S, as you travel up Trincomali Channel you'll come just W of Phillimore Point on Galiano Island and turn to starboard into the channel leading into Montague Harbor.  Or from the N, you will come down Trincomali Passage, staying E of the Balingall Islets and enter the channel between Parker Island and Point Grey and turn to port to enter Montague Harbor. (Stay well W of the peninsula since it is shoal at the NW corner.)  Whether you come from the S or N you will find that Montague Harbor is a popular place.  The NW corner of the harbor is filled with mooring buoys operated by BC Provincial Parks.  There's a small park dock for small boats (<26') and dinghies.  A park ranger will visit you in the early evening so you can pay your mooring fee of $10 per night. Or, you can anchor pretty much anywhere in the large harbor over a thick, sticky gray, mud bottom which offers good holding.  A few folks will anchor in the bight just NW of the Provincial Park on the Trincomali Passage side.  Again, good holding bottom of thick sticky mud.  If you don't want use a park buoy, or anchor, you can also find visitor moorage at the Montague Harbour Marina which is located along the middle - east side of Montague Harbor.  The marina has some groceries, gift shop and a grill/snack bar. On hot August days we'll always stop by to get some ice cream. Although we've never done it, you can rent a moped to tour the island (maybe a future idea?).

View of Montague Hbr. towards Pt. Grey looking W.

If a brisk northwesterly wind is blowing out in the Strait of Georgia you can bet it will be blowing in Montague Harbor.  On occasion we have seen some boats drag anchor if they don't have enough scope out.  There's good protection from any SE winds.  You'll want to arrive early if you want a BC Provincial Parks mooring buoy since they all seem to be taken by 2:00 PM (or earlier) during the summer.  At times, I have counted well over a hundred boats anchored in the harbor during August when Montague Harbor is most popular with visiting boaters.  Bigger boats tend to anchor in the middle of the harbor where the depth is about 60'.  The past few years, late in the summer a big converted tug will anchor in the middle of the harbor and you can buy freshly baked goods.

For the MV Independence, Montague Harbor is about four hours away from Friday Harbor in the San Juan's, and about five hours away from Nanaimo.  It's a good central spot in the Gulf Islands.  After anchoring in Montague, we'll often take an extended dinghy ride over to Ganges to get groceries.  It's a bit of an adventurous dinghy ride (~8 nm), but can be done on calm days without any problem. You'll get to visit crowded, busy, and noisy Ganges but know you can return to peace and quiet.  However, most of the time we enjoy the 1 mile long Point Grey trail that goes from the campground and makes a loop on the western peninsula.  There's plenty of places to stop, read a book in the shade, take a short nap, or poke about on the beach.  Or we'll walk on the road that leads into the park and walk towards the marina.  Both are enjoyable walks that will present you with lots of photo opportunities.  During the summer on certain nights (Thu,, Fri., Sat.) you can catch the free "pub bus" that travels to the Hummingbird Pub on Galiano Island.  That's a fun adventure in itself.

View of Montague Hbr. looking SE from the Point Grey trail.

You can drop your garbage off in the park, but it will cost you about $2 per bag.  The park has no showers and only pit toilets, but the outhouses are very clean.  BC Provincial Parks has on weekends a naturalist available that can tell you about the marine life and ecology of the Gulf Islands. There's a little marine wildlife center on the dock for kids. Cell phone reception in Montague Harbor is very poor.  It could be from the power lines that stretch over the northern half of Montague Harbor, or from the steep sides of Galiano Island.  You'll either find that a blessing to be out of contact, or a curse.  I tend to find the lack of cell phone service a blessing.  If you're into fishing you can fish for salmon in the Active Pass area nearby; just be careful of the frequent BC ferries that travel through.

Montague Harbor is a Gulf Island gem.  I hope you will find it as a "first" or "last" on your cruising adventure too.  If you want to learn more about Montague Harbor, Amazon.com has several books about cruising the Gulf Islands. May I suggest Peter Vassilopoulos' Gulf Islands Cruising Guide?