Time for new batteries

Believe it or not, the batteries in the MV Independence have lasted for over eight (8) years.  The MV Independence uses three batteries - one 4D as a starting battery, and two 8D's as house batteries.  The batteries are all lead acid (flooded) batteries and not AGM or Gel batteries.  The MV Independence does have a permanent battery charger and while at anchor uses a small solar panel to help keep the batteries charged.

Using a hydrometer to see how "good"
your batteries are.

I am a "battery miser" and maybe that's why I was able to get over eight years out of these batteries.  However, as I tried to start the boat recently they're definitely dead.  I checked all the battery connections and they are all secure and good.  The battery voltage indicator at the helm showed that the batteries were good, that is over 13.5 volts.  But, as soon as you hit the starter button the sound was not of a healthy battery charge, rather that tell tale sound of a low or dead battery.  To confirm this I did a quick hydrometer check (specific gravity) and it showed that indeed all batteries are definitely low or dead.  A hydrometer is an essential tool that should be in every boater's tool kit.  It will definitely tell you what the status of your batteries are.  I knew last summer that my battery life was coming to an end - the windlass sounded slow, the starter was not crisp, and the voltmeter showed that it took a long time for my batteries to recover.

Eight years is a long time for the batteries to last.  How did I achieve this?  I've replaced almost all of my house lights with LED bulbs; I only run my refrigerator during daylight hours and then at a low setting (1-2); use a cooler for most items; carefully watch my battery voltage levels; use personal lighting devices versus using house lighting (lanterns, LED reading lights, etc.); and use an anchor light which runs from an independent battery.  Being a "battery miser" is not always fun.  The crew is always complaining about my concern on battery usage.  Maybe if I counted up the amount of money I've spent on ice I would be purchasing batteries every 4 or 5 years - I've never given it much thought.

Lately, I've been doing a lot of Internet research on what batteries to buy and where.  The cheapest option is to go to Sears and buy a "Die Hard."  This may not be the best option.  Instead, take an inventory of what your battery needs are and purchase an appropriate battery.  That is, identify the power requirements of your boat when it is at anchor, that is the refrigerator, lights, radio, and more and calculate the Amp Hours (Ah) required and compare that to the battery you are buying.  You never want to discharge a deep cycle battery more than 70% because it will never fully recover from this draining.  So, how does this all work?

Let's assume your Amp Hours (Ah) is 25 Ah counting all lights, refrigerator and more.  You might want to be a conservative "battery miser" like me and don't want to exceed 60% depth of discharge, giving you a 10% cushion.  Look at the chart and you'll see that 60% is about about 2 hours.  That will put you looking at purchasing a bit more expensive 200 Ah battery.  The cheaper battery might be only 125 Ah.  Multiply 200 Ah x 60% = 120 Ah (@ 2 hr. rate).  120 Ah / 2 hours = 60 Amps.  60Amps  / 25 Ah  = 2.4 hours.  So you're safe for another 36 minutes when your battery would be at 60% of depth of discharge capacity.  If you can lower your Ah you can run your batteries longer, for example  60 Amps / 20 Ah = 3 hours; or 60 Amps / 15 Ah = 4 hours!  You just need to decide how much power you want to use, or how much of a "battery miser" you want to be.  Conversely, if you chose the 125 Ah battery, you would only have 1.5 hours at 25 Ah!

What will take you the most time is inventorying your power consumption for a day at anchor.  I list each item (e.g., refrigerator, cabin lights, cell phone charger, radio, heater, etc.), the power draw in Amps for each, and an estimated time on or running for each, then multiply the time by the Amps to get Ah.  Some items may be only use mA or milliAmps which you have to divide by 1,000 to get the Amps. Add them all together to get your daily Ah needs. Don't forget to include your stereo which has a connection to the battery and uses power to display the clock!
 
Finally, rough estimates for a 4D flooded batteries deep cycle 200 Ah battery (lead acid vs. AGM or Gel) are about $170 versus over $400.  The $230 I would spend extra is not - in my opinion - worth it.  The argument of flooded versus other batteries could go on and on.  Yes, flooded batteries require more attentive maintenance - checking water levels, adding water, etc..  However, for me the flooded battery is my choice.  Flooded batteries have served the MV Independence for over 20 years. 

Stay tuned for an upcoming blog post on the project of removing and installing the new batteries.

Favorite Eats - Singapore Noodles & Shrimp

View from Althorp Pt. anchorage

In a previous post about catching shrimp I said I'd follow up with some shrimp recipes.  This one is one of the favorites from guests and crew of the MV Independence. Singapore noodles and shrimp always gets rave reviews.  Maybe because of the fresh shrimp, or maybe its because we're at some beautiful anchorage, or because we are surrounded by friends and family, or maybe all of the above.  Finally, it's oh so fast and easy to prepare, especially on your boat where ingredients and space matter.

Ingredients:

• 2 tbsp butter
• 1 tbsp olive oil
• 1/2 of a small yellow onion, chopped fine
• 2 cloves garlic, minced (or 1 tsp of garlic powder)
• 1/2 red sweet bell pepper, cut into thin strips
• 1 small carrot (6"), cut into thin match stick sized pieces
• 2 tbsp of curry powder (we use Madras curry powder)
• 2 tbsp of sweet vermouth or mirin
• 2 tbsp of soy sauce
• 2 tbsp of sambal oelek (red chili sauce) - more or less to taste
• 12-20 large shrimp tails, peeled
• 2 cups cooked al dente spaghetti or vermicelli
• 2-3 green onions, chopped

Instructions:
Cook pasta and when done, drain and set aside.

Singapore noodles with fresh shrimp

In a large pan over medium high heat, melt butter and stir fry shrimp until just barely done about 2-3 minutes.  Shrimp will just start to turn pink.  Do not overcook.  Remove shrimp and set aside.  In the same pan that you just cooked the shrimp in add the olive oil and let it get hot.  Once the oil is hot, add the onion and garlic and cook until the onion just turns clear and soft.  Next, add the carrots, peppers to the onions and garlic and cook for two minutes, stirring occasionally.  Add the red chili sauce, the vermouth or mirin, and the curry powder and mix all ingredients well and cook for one minute.  Now, return the shrimp to the pan and finish cooking them, mixing the shrimp with all the ingredients.  Finally add the pasta to the pan and mix it well with all the ingredients.  Pour the soy sauce over the prawn and noodle mixture and mix well again.  We top it off with green onions and serve the dish family style, letting everyone serve themselves.  Keep the sambal oelek (red chili sauce) and soy sauce on the side for those who want more.  Make sure you have a nice bottle of chilled Chardonnay or Riesling to go with dinner.

We often serve Singapore Noodles with a side of "sunomono" - thinly sliced cucumbers in a dish with a bit of rice vinegar, sake or mirin, a dash of soy sauce, and a drop of sesame oil.  Mix the ingredients to taste, then add the cucumbers and let sit, chilled, for about 30 minutes.  For a special treat you might want to add a few lumps of crab meat to the sunomono.

After 25 years of going "upcoast" and catching shrimp we've got a lot more recipes like Shrimp with Gorgonzola Sauce, Thai curry shrimp, Gumbo, and more.  If readers are interested let me know and I can post more recipes.  Enjoy.

Favorite Anchorages - Montague Harbor

Montague Harbor is always a Canadian first or last for the MV Independence.  It's either the first stop in Canada as we go "upcoast" or our last stop in Canada as we head back home; either way it's a favorite of ours.  It offers us so much - a great place to relax and lay on the beach, or stretch our legs and go for a nice walk, or take a swim, or just do nothing, or all of the above.

Approaches to Montague Harbor are easy.  From the S, as you travel up Trincomali Channel you'll come just W of Phillimore Point on Galiano Island and turn to starboard into the channel leading into Montague Harbor.  Or from the N, you will come down Trincomali Passage, staying E of the Balingall Islets and enter the channel between Parker Island and Point Grey and turn to port to enter Montague Harbor. (Stay well W of the peninsula since it is shoal at the NW corner.)  Whether you come from the S or N you will find that Montague Harbor is a popular place.  The NW corner of the harbor is filled with mooring buoys operated by BC Provincial Parks.  There's a small park dock for small boats (<26') and dinghies.  A park ranger will visit you in the early evening so you can pay your mooring fee of $10 per night. Or, you can anchor pretty much anywhere in the large harbor over a thick, sticky gray, mud bottom which offers good holding.  A few folks will anchor in the bight just NW of the Provincial Park on the Trincomali Passage side.  Again, good holding bottom of thick sticky mud.  If you don't want use a park buoy, or anchor, you can also find visitor moorage at the Montague Harbour Marina which is located along the middle - east side of Montague Harbor.  The marina has some groceries, gift shop and a grill/snack bar. On hot August days we'll always stop by to get some ice cream. Although we've never done it, you can rent a moped to tour the island (maybe a future idea?).

View of Montague Hbr. towards Pt. Grey looking W.

If a brisk northwesterly wind is blowing out in the Strait of Georgia you can bet it will be blowing in Montague Harbor.  On occasion we have seen some boats drag anchor if they don't have enough scope out.  There's good protection from any SE winds.  You'll want to arrive early if you want a BC Provincial Parks mooring buoy since they all seem to be taken by 2:00 PM (or earlier) during the summer.  At times, I have counted well over a hundred boats anchored in the harbor during August when Montague Harbor is most popular with visiting boaters.  Bigger boats tend to anchor in the middle of the harbor where the depth is about 60'.  The past few years, late in the summer a big converted tug will anchor in the middle of the harbor and you can buy freshly baked goods.

For the MV Independence, Montague Harbor is about four hours away from Friday Harbor in the San Juan's, and about five hours away from Nanaimo.  It's a good central spot in the Gulf Islands.  After anchoring in Montague, we'll often take an extended dinghy ride over to Ganges to get groceries.  It's a bit of an adventurous dinghy ride (~8 nm), but can be done on calm days without any problem. You'll get to visit crowded, busy, and noisy Ganges but know you can return to peace and quiet.  However, most of the time we enjoy the 1 mile long Point Grey trail that goes from the campground and makes a loop on the western peninsula.  There's plenty of places to stop, read a book in the shade, take a short nap, or poke about on the beach.  Or we'll walk on the road that leads into the park and walk towards the marina.  Both are enjoyable walks that will present you with lots of photo opportunities.  During the summer on certain nights (Thu,, Fri., Sat.) you can catch the free "pub bus" that travels to the Hummingbird Pub on Galiano Island.  That's a fun adventure in itself.

View of Montague Hbr. looking SE from the Point Grey trail.

You can drop your garbage off in the park, but it will cost you about $2 per bag.  The park has no showers and only pit toilets, but the outhouses are very clean.  BC Provincial Parks has on weekends a naturalist available that can tell you about the marine life and ecology of the Gulf Islands. There's a little marine wildlife center on the dock for kids. Cell phone reception in Montague Harbor is very poor.  It could be from the power lines that stretch over the northern half of Montague Harbor, or from the steep sides of Galiano Island.  You'll either find that a blessing to be out of contact, or a curse.  I tend to find the lack of cell phone service a blessing.  If you're into fishing you can fish for salmon in the Active Pass area nearby; just be careful of the frequent BC ferries that travel through.

Montague Harbor is a Gulf Island gem.  I hope you will find it as a "first" or "last" on your cruising adventure too.  If you want to learn more about Montague Harbor, Amazon.com has several books about cruising the Gulf Islands. May I suggest Peter Vassilopoulos' Gulf Islands Cruising Guide?

Summer Trip Planning - Catching Shrimp

I remarked in an earlier post that I like "catching" more than "fishing."  Well, when it comes to shrimp I definitely like catching more than fishing.  While enjoying a nice salmon, or ling cod, or halibut dinner is good, having a shrimp cocktail before dinner is the best.  To me this is Pacific Northwest cruising at its finest.

When you are on the water, you will find that you need to live your life with the tides & currents.  There are times when you can maximize your crabbing or shrimping, and other times when you set down a pot but your "take" or catch just won't be as good.  Once again, choosing the right tide is oh so important.  As with catching salmon or halibut, taking advantage of a "neap" tide or tide where there's little water difference (generally less than 5') are your best opportunities for catching shrimp.



Spot shrimp are the best.

There are two species of shrimp that you will catch - "Coon Stripes" and "Spots."  "Coon Stripes" have darker red bands that circle the tail of the shrimp and generally smaller rarely exceeding 4-5" in length.  "Spots" have a distinct white spot on the tail and can get to 9-10" in length.  My personal opinion is that "Spots" taste better than "Coonies."  I believe the meat is firmer and the taste just a bit sweeter, but I'll eat either.

To catch shrimp, you will need to find those places where there isn't much current, just at the base of an underwater cliff or drop-off, between 200 and 400' deep, and hopefully close to where a freshwater stream enters.  Many of the long narrow inlets of BC are perfect for shrimping.  When I fish for shrimp I'll put my pot down late in the afternoon and retrieve it the next morning allowing it to "soak" all night.  Shrimp like to actively feed at night, and tend to "bed down" or hide during the day.  Consequently my overnight soaking strategy.  Shrimp are also "opportunistic bottom feeders" looking to feed on anything that might have died and fallen to the bottom.  They don't like high current areas they have to expend a lot of energy to move around against the current.  Besides that, any food that falls to the bottom tends to move with the current so the shrimp have a tough time finding or feeding on it.  Again you'll want to find a time when there's very little current.  Again, a "neap tide" or when there's little tidal exchange.

When I look at the tides for the inlets in and around Desolation Sound this summer (2011) it doesn't look good for shrimping.  Most of the smaller tidal exchanges occur during the daylight hours with large tidal exchanges (more than 10') happening during the nighttime hours.  In fact, the last "good" nighttime shrimping tides occur in May and then don't return again until late fall.  So I can't expect huge hauls of shrimp, rather maybe smaller hauls of between 5-30 shrimp per pot.  This correlates very nicely with the notes that I have taken in my 21 years of cruising and fishing the BC coast.  Of course there are other factors too that will determine your shrimp "take."  My notes tell me that water temperature is a big factor, also how hard was the area hit by commercial shrimpers recently, and how much bait (herring, anchovies, etc.) are in the area.

Last year wasn't a good shrimp year for the MV Independence to some of the inlets that we visited, but we still enjoyed some shrimp dinners and cocktails.  Tides weren't conducive - over 12' exchanges at night.  The water temperature was 38F which is very cold.  When cruising I saw very few sea birds and noticed few "bait soundings" on my depth sounder.  And locals told me that the area was heavily fished during the winter months.

However, my desire and appetite for fresh shrimp is strong and so I'll still set a few shrimp pots, I just have to temper my expectations.  To go shrimping you will need the following (which are all available at Cabelas):

• A sturdy shrimp pot, preferable a heavy guage metal pot.  Note, shrimp pots sold in BC may not be legal in Washington, because the mesh size might be smaller.
• A minimum of 350' of good nylon line.  Too thin it will hurt your hands to pull up, and too thick and it will take a huge spool of line.  I like 3/8" yellow poly line.
• A heavy duty float, I use a large "cherry buoy."  You'll need to put your name, boat name, and phone number on it.  A couple of times I'm glad I used a large buoy, because the pot "floated" and I could spot the buoy down the inlet.
• A couple of clip on lead weights to ensure that your line does not float.
• A plastic container to hold your bait that is secured inside your pot.  I like to use a mix of commercial fish food pellets and pieces of fish carcass.
• And a fishing license and knowledge about the fishing regulations in your area.

Study your chart and look for the flat areas that are just below a steep drop off at about 250-300' deep and hopefully close to a stream or creek.  Slowly drop your pot down and keep tension on the line as it drops.  Notice that wind or current may stray you from the spot you originally picked.  I also suggest stopping your motor because you don't want to get your shrimp pot line tangled in your prop.  That will ruin your day.  Once you notice the pot is on the bottom, place a clip on lead weight on the line, and spool out about another 30-50' of line to account for the tide and current.  Securely tie your buoy to your line and place the second clip on lead weight just below the buoy, about 1'-2'.  Mark the spot with your GPS.  Then when you return later you can see if your pot moved because of the current, if it did, your shrimp haul will be less than expected.  I also suggest entering notes in your log book about your shrimp pot set such as where, when (time of day), the tide height, the depth, temperature, current, water clarity, and weather conditions (cloudy, sunny).  From your notes, you will start learning about catching shrimp and improve your shrimp catching prowess.

I'll follow up this blog post with some great shrimp recipes.  Good luck.

Summer Trip Planning - Where & When To Fish

One of the best reasons to go cruising is to catch some fish and have fresh fish for dinner - nothing is better.  I like to go "catching" versus "fishing."  So I'll do whatever it takes to catch fish versus spending time and money and fishing.  Over the 20+ years of cruising "up coast" to British Columbia I have come to recognize that you've got to know the tides and currents if you want to catch fish.  Not knowing the tides and currents will have you doing a lot of fishing and not catching.  Also important is to understand which fish to fish for during which tides and currents.  For example, you're not going to be very successful fishing for halibut or springs (King salmon) when the current is really running hard, but you can fish for coho salmon.  Secondly, you need to know the rules and regulations.  No use fishing if the area has a restriction.  Or buying a 5 day license when the best times to fish are all at night.  Thirdly, you need to know where to fish for what you are fishing for.  Your chance for catching halibut will be low if you are slowly trolling along the steep shore of a narrow inlet.  And finally, you need to consider the weather for the location you plan to fish.  No use fishing Taylor Bank in Queen Charlotte Strait if there's a 20+ knot westerly blowing - you'll be miserable and lose lots of gear.

Nice 12 lb. chicken halibut

My favorite fish to catch is halibut.  Halibut can range is size from 15-20 lb. "chickens" to 200 lb plus "barn doors."  I enjoy "chicken" halibut the best because they're easily to handle, easy to clean, easy to catch, and don't always contain parasites like the big, old ones do.  I also think they're better tasting.  One popular place you can try catching a halibut is Taylor Bank in Queen Charlotte Strait. (You didn't think I would give you my secret fishing holes did you?) You'll want to pick a day and time when there's very little current and the wind is not blowing.  Now, we can't predict what the weather will be that far in advance but we can predict the tides.  You'll want to pick a date where the high and low tides are not too extreme.  A few "good" dates are July 24 through July 26.  That means you could start fishing around 8 AM and finish before the usual afternoon winds begin to blow. (Want to read a great book on how to catch halibut?  Go to Amazon.com and enter "How to Catch Trophy Halibut."  It's written by a friend of mine and there's a well worn copy aboard the MV Independence.)

Tides for Blunden Harbor, BC approx. 7 nm away from Taylor Bank for 7/25 & 26

If you're interested in catching springs (King salmon) a good place to fish for them is in and around Cordero Channel (just NW of the Yuculta Rapids and Desolation Sound).  Looking at the below tides, the best time would be in the evenings just before dark from July 24 through July 26.  Again, there's not too much change in the tide between high and low.  You'll want to very slowly troll or even mooch along steep underwater drop offs with a plug or herring, or jig.

Tides for Shoal Bay, Cordero Channel, BC for 7/24 & 7/25

If your interest is still for salmon but you don't want to go out in the evening, you could try catching coho salmon on the same mornings when the tide is running stronger.  I learned from experience to troll in only one direction, that is don't troll against the current because you really won't move anywhere but troll with the current.  When you are trolling, vary your speed and look for small tide rips and troll or mooch along the edge of these currents.  When you get to the "end" of your fishing area, pull up your gear and quickly motor back to where you started fishing,  Try varying depths from 30'-80' and troll a flasher and a hoochie (squid looking thing). You could also mooch with a cut plug herring.  (You can find all sorts of salmon lures - plugs, hoochies, flashers, and more at Cabelas.com.)

Small 15 lb. spring salmon

As to weather, I used to be a fish biologist long ago and I can tell you there is some truth to the saying, "fish bite better during rain."  It's a fish physiology "thing." When the barometric pressure is low there is less pressure on the water and so the transfer of oxygen in the water across the gills in fish is easier and the fish are more active to feed.  If the pressure is high, the transfer of oxygen from the water across the gills is tougher and so the fish are less active to feed.  So, watch the barometer if it's way high your chance of catching fish is less than if the barometer is low. 

Remember you cannot fish in any area that is marked as a "Rockfish Conservation Zone."  When fishing for salmon you must have a salmon stamp on your license and use barbless hooks.  Always carry the current sportfishing pamphlet with you along with your license, and take the time to read the regulations for the area you are fishing.  If you meet up with DFO they will tell you that ignorance is not an excuse.  (You can buy your Canadian fishing license online, goto "http://www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca/fm-gp/rec/licence-permis/index-eng.htm")

I hope you do more "catching" than "fishing."

Summer Trip Planning - Returning Home to Olympia

Unfortunately like the song says, "All good things must come to an end" and so must vacations.  All that we can plan for this year is three weeks, which is good but also short.  Now I am estimating that we will be staying Saturday night in Kingston and cruising home on Sunday.  For us there is a significant amount of tradition of being in Kingston the last night of our big summer cruise. When I check the log book, we've been doing this tradition for over 20 years! One of our significant traditions is pizza at Kingston's Bella Luna Restaurant.  And, we always order the same pizza, "The Morgan's Special" which is loaded with sausage, black olives, pepperoni, onions, peppers, and jalapenos.  It's always great and we never leave disappointed.  Now that it just the two of us, we commonly get a box for the left-overs and have cold pizza for breakfast while crusing S.  Oh, and there's a bakery where you can get incredible cupcakes too - but that's another story.

Back to trip planning... This year Sunday, August 8th shows that there is a flood tide that will start about 7:45 AM off of President Point just S of Kingston.  My aim though, is to take advantage of the flood going through the Tacoma Narrows which peaks at 9:36 AM (3.34 knots).  I also want to take advantage of the flood to push me all the way down through Balch Passage (by Eagle Is.) and Dana Passage.  The ebb starts at Dana Passage at 1:55 PM, with a max ebb of 1.16 knots at 4:27 PM.  Remember I want to take advantage of the currents to maximize my time and fuel costs.  Going "uphill" or against the current wastes time and money. 

The distance from Kingston to Olympia is about 58 nautical miles.  My average speed is about 6.5 knots (I'd go a bit faster if I wasn't towing a 19' Zodiac), so it should take me about 9 hours to travel from Kingston to Olympia.  So if I were to leave Kingston at 5:00 AM I should make it Olympia about 2:00 PM.  Only in a perfect world.  Remember, earlier I said that flood would start at 7:45 AM, if I were to leave at 5 AM means I'm going to fight some current for almost 3 hours and not make 6.5 knots but less.  The current at President Point at 5:00 AM is 0.6 knots ebb.  And most importantly, I have to figure that I will be fighting the current all the way through Colvos Passage.  Remember, the current in Colvos Passage always flows N.

From Ocean 442 course paper from UW

I have found that I can apply the same "back eddy" trick I use for traveling Canadian passages against the current for Colvos Passage - well almost.  I'll approach Colvos Passage from the N near Pt. Vashon and then travel down the E side of Colvos Passage, hugging the Vashon Island shore until I get to Point Sandford. Unlike in Canada, the shore along Vashon Island is much more shoal, and so I will have to watch my depth sounder and work to follow a minimum 40' depth contour.  If all goes well, I should be making 6+ knots or more cruising down Colvos Passage.  At Point Sandford I'll give up this "shore hugging back eddy trick" and aim for Point Defiance since there are no more back eddies.

So, what's my plan?  Sunrise on August 7th is at 5:54 AM.  My plan is to leave at 6:00 AM (no cupcakes, but I'll have pizza) and get to Restoration Point at about 8:30 AM.  I'll ride a bit of the flood to arrive near Pt. Vashon at about 9:00 AM.  Then using my "back eddy trick" I'll work my way down Colvos Passage to make Point Sandford at about 10:10 AM.  From there, I'll try to make Point Defiance at about 11:05 AM and finally get to ride the last of the flood into South Sound.  Weeooo! I'll get 2 knots of flood current to push me up to 8+ knots through the Tacoma Narrows and I should be by Eagle Island in Balch Passage by around 1:00 PM. Hopefully I'll make Dana Passage just as it turns to ebb around 2 PM and I should be back in my slip by 3:30 PM.

I very much enjoy this part of cruising, although I am not actually cruising, but cruise planning.  What makes it most rewarding is when it all comes together and works.  "Now if I go to the bakery to get those delicious cupcakes that will have us leaving at..."

Favorite Anchorages - Nanaimo & Newcastle Island Marine Park

Whenever we pass through Nanaimo on our trip N or S we always anchor at Newcastle Island Marine Park.  Some may consider this as Nanaimo Harbor too.  I call it Newcastle Harbor because of the absolutely great Newcastle Island Marine Park.  It's a great anchorage - good sticky mud that will hold your boat securely.  Fairly shallow about 10'-40' so you don't need much scope, I generally anchor with a 3:1 scope and have always done just fine, even when it's blowing 25+ knots out in Georgia Strait.  On the N end you are bounded by Newcastle Island and some shoals - very visible at low tide.  To the E you'll find Protection Island.  Good protection from summer NW winds and SE storms.

During the summer months this anchorage can get quite crowded, not only from visiting boats but also from Nanaimo locals who just venture out for the day or evening.  You will have to pick your anchorage spot between long anchored local boats - some colorful and eccentric to others seeming to be only a short wait from a watery grave.  All makes and types of craft from all over the world you can find anchored in Newcastle Harbor. Sometimes you'll return from shopping in town only to find a boat anchored within 20-30' from you.  And, it's not a quiet anchorage, more like a party and city anchorage.  You always seem to hear the noise from the city - bands playing in the waterfront park, a roaring Harley on the streets, or the siren from an ambulance or the RCMP.  And, it's not a dark anchorage because of all the Nanaimo city lights.  Oh, and did I mention that it can be a busy anchorage?  The small ferries from Nanaimo to Newcastle Island are regularly traveling through the anchorage as well as kayaks, dinghies, runabouts, and boats. Newcastle Harbor is hive of activity.  But yet despite all this it is a favorite anchorage of mine.

You are very close to good shopping - fuel, propane, water, groceries, liquor, ice, marine chandlery, and good restaurants.  All within very short walking distance. The Thrifty Foods store has all sorts of sumptuous pre-barbeque fare such as marinated shrimp or chicken, or beef on skewers, ribs, chops, and steaks.  (I like the Cajun shrimp skewers, and Thrifty Foods makes a great Tzatziki sauce for dipping veggies.)  The marine chandlery just up from Thrifty Foods is packed with all sorts of marine supplies, parts and "stuff."  They seem to have everything.  Once you tire of the city and its fast pace, you can quickly and easily escape to nice walks through deep woods, beachcombing, a kiddie wading area and play ground, and picnicking on Newcastle Island.  There's a park concession which serves snacks and ice cream.  By the way, the park restrooms are nice and clean and have got great showers - just make sure to have a "loonie" or two (Canadian $1 coin). For a special treat you can visit the floating Dinghy Dock Pub which is only a short row from your anchorage. As a result, I've always thought that to fully enjoy Nanaimo it takes you at least 2-3 days here.  It's a great place to re-provision and relax just after or before "crossing the Monster."

When venturing N up Newcastle Island Passage make sure you do not exceed the speed limit of 5 knots.  The RCMP routinely use a radar gun to ensure boats travel the proper speed.  And I've seen the RCMP write speeding tickets which are often followed up by a boarding and safety inspection - ugh.  Also make sure you follow the channel, too many times you hear about a boat hitting the rocks in Newcastle Passage.

Dodd Narrows is only about 4.5 nm away and so Newcastle Harbor can be used as a staging area while waiting for slack.

Nanaimo 2011 summer special events:

• July 8 - 10 Dragon Boat Races & festival.  Teams from all over BC and the US will take part in the 9th annual Save On Foods Nanaimo Dragon Boat Festival -- a weekend of competition, camaraderie and celebration on Nanaimo's waterfront. 
• July 23-24 Nanaimo Bathtub Race weekend.  Watch high powered "bathtubs" race from Departure Bay and out into Georgia Strait.

Favorite Anchorages - Squirrel Cove, BC

I'm always happy to anchor at Squirrel Cove, BC.  I've either conquered "Crossing the Monster" (see previous post about crossing Georgia Strait) on my way N, or it's my last stop in Desolation Sound as I head S.  It seems that there's always room for just one more boat when you arrive late.  I always stay more than one night, just to relax and enjoy this very special anchorage - and so do many other boaters.  Squirrel Cove is one of those anchorages where it can be a party one day and offer quiet solitude the next.  I remember one year slowly motoring in my dinghy by a sailboat whose cockpit was filled with folks.  One was playing a guitar, another a recorder, and the rest singing.  I slowed, and said, "You know Red River Valley?"  Next thing you know they were playing and singing this old west favorite of mine.  I suspected as much and I was a bit sly, since I packed my harmonica with me hoping to join this party.  They invited me aboard and for the next hour I was part of this impromptu folk gathering.  It was great fun.  That's one reason why I enjoy Squirrel Cove.



"Dog Poo" Island

The anchorage is rather large and will suit almost any type of boat large or small.  During the height of the boating season in August I have counted more than 100 boats anchored throughout the cove.  Some prefer to anchor in the outer bay, whereas I prefer to anchor farther in.  There's lots of little nooks and crannies to anchor.  My favorite spot is just W of "Dog Poo Island."  I call it that because it seems everyone walks their dog on this island, including me.  Just be careful, the many oyster shells lining the shore can slice open your inflatable or badly cut your dog's paw.  By the way, it is illegal to harvest any oysters.

I have done a shore tie, but then other times I just use my anchor without a shore tie.  The bottom is a very sticky (and smelly) grey mud which will hold you fine, provided you have enough scope.  The inner bay depths are around 30 - 40' and around 60' deep in the outer bay.  Only once have I dragged anchor in Squirrel Cove and that was because of some very nasty westerlies that entered along with an unusually high tide.  Generally though the entire cove is sheltered from any strong winds, waves, and currents.  The only waves are from a rare few inconsiderate boaters who feel they can race through the anchorage. 

During the summer the cove fills with hundred of thousands of "moon jellies."  There's a resident population of Canada Geese which in the evening travel from boat to boat begging for hand-outs.  The ravens with their deep croak will call reminding you you're far from civilization.  Bald eagles will perch in the tops of trees.  And, I've seen an occasional otter or martin swimming along shore.  One evening I remember sitting out on deck listening to a Nighthawk feeding far above me.  Again a reminder that you're away in the wilderness.

The activities in Squirrel Cove are actually many for an anchorage in Desolation Sound.  You can order bread, or sticky buns, or a fresh fruit pie from the floating local bakery located in the cove.  You order the evening before and the next morning you can pick up your fresh hot baked item.  The Squirrel Cove bread is particularly good.  The favorite late afternoon activity is to slowly cruise through the myriad of anchored boats via your dinghy through the cove, and then once you're out of the cove go for broke like a madman to the Squirrel Cove Store about 1 nm away.  The store has liquor, ice, ice cream, fresh produce, meats, and a wide variety of groceries.  You can even get a marine part or fishing gear.  If you're not in the mood to cook, they've even got a small restaurant.  We always buy some fresh Squirrel Cove roasted coffee for the trip.  If your dinghy is a bit more stout, you can journey to Teakerne Arm to go swimming in beautiful Cassel Lake; or go to Refuge Cove for a hamburger.  At high tide you can either take your kayak or dinghy into the small lagoon at the head of the cove.  When you enter the lagoon it's another world away.  Just be careful not to get stranded by staying too long which is easy to do. One hot day, I anchored my dinghy right at the base of the lagoon outfall and enjoyed the mist to keep me cool.  You can also hike over to Von Donop Inlet on nice a wooded trail.  Or you can go swimming in the cove, the water is very warm. (The whole cove is a no discharge zone.)  There's just so many things to do.

When I am "upcoast" I always stop at Squirrel Cove. It's a definite favorite of mine.

Squirrel Cove is about 22 nm miles to the Yucultas, 24 nm miles to Campbell River, 12 nm from Prideaux Haven, and 12 nm miles to Lund.

Summer Trip Planning - Canadian Rapids

As I continue planning my 2011 upcoast trip, it is important to consider the many tidal passes that you might have to navigate. A tidal pass is a narrow and relatively shallow passage that has a lot of current. At the peak of the current flow - ebb or flood - there are numerous water hazards which can dangerously affect your boat - whirlpools, boils (rising water), and overfalls (waterfalls & large standing waves). As a result, most tidal passes should only be navigated at slack to be safe. Slack is that very short time between flood and ebb, or ebb and flood where there is no current and lasts only minutes. Some slack periods last only moments. I remember once watching a stick slowly moving through Nakwakto Rapids in one direction, slowly come to a stop, and then reverse direction all in less than a minute. Less than an hour later the rapids were so bad that it would be dangerous for my boat the MV Independence to navigate.

When navigating a tidal pass at any time other than slack you need to know what your boat can do and what do in case of an emergency. Although rare, there have been incidents where a boat traversing a tidal rapid has been driven to shore, collided with other boats or objects, or worst of all - capsized! So timing your arrival to hit slack is important. That means knowing the currents leading up to slack, planning an appropriate anchorage, and knowing how fast your boat travels. If heading into current you don't make much way, and the current gets worse and worse. Once, I was actually going backwards - losing ground, while going forwards! Or worse yet, you get caught in the current which is going with you and you lose your steerage - scary.

The passes that I treat with great respect, that is I generally only travel through them at at slack (or near slack) are:

• Dodd Narrows just S of Nanaimo. There are some overfalls and whirlpools, but the biggest concern is the amount of boat traffic through this narrow passage.
• The Yuculta's (pronounced Yew-Caw-Tahs) - Yuculta, Gillard, and Dent rapids. There are boils, whirlpools, and very strong currents in these rapids. Boat traffic can be a concern.
• Upper Rapids (Okisollo Channel). Large overfalls (>5' at times) and very strong currents.
• Surge Narrows (Okisollo Channel). Narrow passage with very strong currents.
• Skookumchuck Narrows (Sechelt Inlet). Large overfalls, very strong currents, boils and whirlpools.
• Seymour Narrows (Discovery Passage). Boils, whirlpools, and very strong currents.
• Nakwakto Rapids (Seymour & Belize Inlets). Boils, whirlpools, and very strong currents.

Other rapids that I respect but are willing to travel at any time because I have years of experience and knowledge with them are:

• Malibu Rapids outside of Princess Louisa. Strong currents, some overfalls, navigation issues, and other boat traffic.
• Greene Point Rapids (Cordero Channel). Strong currents, boils, and small whirlpools.
• Whirlpool Rapids (Wellbore Channel). Strong currents, boils, and small whirlpools.
• Chatham Channel. Currents, narrow channel, and shallow areas.
• Lower Rapids (Okisollo Channel). Currents & some boils.

My strategy for all of these tidal passes is to approach them while the current is going against me, meet them at slack and then ride the current through on the other side of the pass. This is particularly so when traveling those tidal rapids in and around Desolation Sound. Because of heavy boat traffic and rough water I generally avoid Discovery Passage which is just N of Campbell River. Discovery Passage seems to really funnel the NW winds down through it. When the current is ebbing (going N) and there's a strong NW wind - it is a recipe for rough water that I absolutely avoid. The longer route is via the Yuculta's and upper Desolation Sound. Generally the NW winds don't enter these channels, and the scenery is so very nice. When traversing this route N I have a series of rapids to traverse - Yucultas, Greene Point, and Whirlpool. I time my arrival to the first rapid - Yuculta - when it is at the end of the flood. I then make Gillard right at slack, and ride the ebb through Dent, Greene Point, and Whirlpool Rapids getting a great "downhill" ride averaging well over 7+ knots.

When cruising S (again I avoid Discovery Passage because of the chance of rough seas and boat traffic), I generally travel through Whirlpool and Greene Point the day before and then go through the Yucultas separately. A trick I learned from fishing boat skippers when traveling S on your way to the Yucultas, is to travel as close as you can to the Sonora Island shore and ride the back eddies instead of plowing head-long into the current mid-channel. At times I am not more than 20' away from shore but the depth is more than 60'. I've passed boats traveling in mid-channel not doing more than 3-4 knots, while I'm riding the back eddies and traveling 7+ knots. Woo hoo!

Anchorages approaching the Yucultas are limited. When cruising N, you've got a great anchorage in Squirrel Cove (Cortes Island) which is about 20 nautical miles away - down Calm Channel and Lewis Channel. There are a few mediocre anchorages which are nearer - Florence Cove (Hole In The Wall), or Frances Bay (Raza Passage) which will do in settled weather. When cruising S, you can stay at Blind Channel Marina, Shoal Bay Marina, Cordero Lodge or anchor in Forward Harbor (Wellbore Channel) or Cordero Cove (near Greene Point Rapids).

For me cruising through these tidal passages makes for exciting and challenging fun. If done right, you won't even know the danger you passed through. For 2011 the date for me to travel through the Yuculta's are on July 24. I will raise anchor from Squirrel Cove at 8:30 AM, travel the 22 nm at an expected average speed of 5.5 knots putting me at Gillard Pass right about 12:45 PM - perfect. I will then ride through Dent with a push, down Cordero Channel with a push, and if I want - I haven't decided yet - go further through Greene Point and Whirlpool Rapids all with a good push. I'll save time and money (fuel).

Summer Trip Planning - Crossing the Monster

Whenever planning a trip "upcoast" you need to carefully consider crossing "the Monster." Walt Woodward in his excellent little book - "How To Cruise to Alaska Without Rocking The Boat" devoted nearly a whole chapter to crossing the Strait of Georgia, which he called the Monster. After 21 years of experience, I have nothing but respect for this leg of the upcoast journey. A rough crossing can affect the whole rest of the trip.

What makes this body of water so feared or respected? Mostly it has to do with the geography. It's a large inland sea trapped between two mountain ranges - the mountains on Vancouver Island and the Coast Range on the mainlaind. These mountains form a venturi, or funnel for the wind that either comes from the NW or SE. Since the summer Pacific High forms in the Gulf of Alaska, I worry more about NW winds although you do get the occasional storm that will bring SE winds. These "moderate northwesterlies" can blow relentlessly for days on end. My observation is that the winds are always worse on the Vancouver Island side than the mainland side.

The winds are commonly worst in the early morning, dying down around mid-day, and then again picking up late in the evening or at night. So keep that in mind. The best tool for planning to cross the Strait is listening to the Canadian Weather Radio on VHF WX1 - Comox Coast Guard Radio. It is updated daily at 4 AM, 10:30 AM, 4 PM, and 10 PM, although the spot observations are updated hourly. I carefully listen to the weather observations for the following places:

• Entrance Island - E of Nanaimo
• Ballenas Island - W of Nanaimo
• Sisters Island - W of Nanaimo, and mid-Georgia Strait
• Merry Island - N of Nanaimo, and on the mainland side
• Cape Lazo - Vancouver Island side
• Grief Point - Near Powell River, mainland side

The wind reports at Cape Lazo, Sisters Island and Ballenas Island will give you the best picture of crossing the Strait. If the wind is blowing greater than 15 knots you're in for a rough ride - seas 3' or more. If they're blowing greater than 20 knots you're in for a terrible ride - seas 4' or more. Ugh! Another complicating factor is if Area WG - "Whiskey Golf" is active. Area WG is the torpedo testing range and any entry into this area when active is strictly "verbotten." No exceptions. Again the Weather Radio will tell you if "Whiskey Golf" is active. If so, you've got to stay clear of it by traveling W to Ballenas Island (via Ballenas Channel) and then make your way N across the Strait. If a strong NW is blowing that will put you "beam to" the NW waves & swell for about 5-8 nautical miles. "Whiskey Golf" is generally not active on Sundays.

My route, depending on winds... if 15 knots or greater I stick close to the Vancouver Island shore out of Nanaimo and will duck in behind the Winchelsea Islands. If the winds are too strong and the seas too rough I'll stay at a great nearby marina - Schooner Cove - and wait for the winds to die down. If not, I will turn just E of Ballenas and make for E end of Lasqueti Island (towards Squitty Bay). That will put me in beam seas to the NW waves and swell for only about 5 nm. I'll then duck into one of the many anchorages in and around Bull Passage of Lasqueti and Jedediah Islands.

If the wind is less than 10 knots and Area WG is not active, I will make for either the E end of Lasqueti or Texada Island (Upwood Pt.) and then travel up Sabine Channel or Malaspina Strait. If I choose to do Sabine Channel, the forecast has to be for winds less than 10 knots because once you get past Lasqueti Island you're open to the full NW open waters of Georgia Strait. You'll save about 8 nm going this route to Desolation Sound. Otherwise I'll travel up Malaspina Strait - careful, once you round NW point on E side of Texada Island the NW winds and seas can be terrible. Again, plan accordingly.

What I really like to do is leave Nanaimo, make a direct route to Bull Passage of Lasqueti Island, anchor, and then finish crossing "the Monster" for the next day. The whole time I am listening over and over again to the weather radio. This cruise plan breaks up the Georgia Strait crossing to 5 hours one day and about 9 hours the next day. And, there are so many places to enjoy and explore in and around Jedediah Island - its beautiful.

Finally, I always try to plan riding the flood when going up the Georgia Strait. There's not too much current but every little bit helps. Below is the tide chart for July 22 outside of Powell River. My plan here is to leave early from my anchorage in Bull Passage area and then ride the flood all the way to Squirrel Cove.